<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" version="2.0" xmlns:itunes="http://www.itunes.com/dtds/podcast-1.0.dtd" xmlns:googleplay="http://www.google.com/schemas/play-podcasts/1.0"><channel><title><![CDATA[Authentic Travels]]></title><description><![CDATA[Notes and reflections on intentional DIY travel as a lived practice of reconnection to self, autonomy, and inner integration.]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com</link><image><url>https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!oXzJ!,w_256,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd871655d-5d7a-4e5c-ad7a-ecf37ae49582_600x600.png</url><title>Authentic Travels</title><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com</link></image><generator>Substack</generator><lastBuildDate>Wed, 08 Jul 2026 06:58:02 GMT</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://authentictravels.substack.com/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><copyright><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></copyright><language><![CDATA[en]]></language><webMaster><![CDATA[authentictravels@substack.com]]></webMaster><itunes:owner><itunes:email><![CDATA[authentictravels@substack.com]]></itunes:email><itunes:name><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></itunes:name></itunes:owner><itunes:author><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></itunes:author><googleplay:owner><![CDATA[authentictravels@substack.com]]></googleplay:owner><googleplay:email><![CDATA[authentictravels@substack.com]]></googleplay:email><googleplay:author><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></googleplay:author><itunes:block><![CDATA[Yes]]></itunes:block><item><title><![CDATA[The Detour I didn't Plan]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 47 - Hiking the Tegallaland Rice Terraces, near Ubud, Bali, Indonesia]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-detour-i-didnt-plan</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-detour-i-didnt-plan</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 04 Jul 2026 12:00:09 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!xVAg!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve finally finished the hike through the rice fields of Tegallalang, 25 kilometers from Ubud. After getting lost in the tangled little paths deeper inside the terraces, I&#8217;ve finally made it down into the main valley. From here, I can already see the road on the other side, with cars and scooters constantly passing by - that&#8217;s where I need to get to, to catch a moto-Gojek back to Ubud. I can&#8217;t wait to get there and finally rest. This hike looks easy from a distance, but it isn&#8217;t; it keeps taking you up and down all the time, and I&#8217;m more tired than I&#8217;ve expected. </p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!x0p1!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1219dd73-f984-419a-857b-cb38564cd8ea_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!x0p1!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1219dd73-f984-419a-857b-cb38564cd8ea_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!x0p1!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1219dd73-f984-419a-857b-cb38564cd8ea_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!x0p1!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1219dd73-f984-419a-857b-cb38564cd8ea_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!x0p1!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1219dd73-f984-419a-857b-cb38564cd8ea_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!x0p1!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1219dd73-f984-419a-857b-cb38564cd8ea_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/1219dd73-f984-419a-857b-cb38564cd8ea_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:200767,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Wide view of the Tegallalang rice terraces near Ubud, with layered rice paddies, palm trees and the road visible on the opposite side of the valley.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/205040946?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1219dd73-f984-419a-857b-cb38564cd8ea_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Wide view of the Tegallalang rice terraces near Ubud, with layered rice paddies, palm trees and the road visible on the opposite side of the valley." title="Wide view of the Tegallalang rice terraces near Ubud, with layered rice paddies, palm trees and the road visible on the opposite side of the valley." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!x0p1!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1219dd73-f984-419a-857b-cb38564cd8ea_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!x0p1!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1219dd73-f984-419a-857b-cb38564cd8ea_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!x0p1!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1219dd73-f984-419a-857b-cb38564cd8ea_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!x0p1!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1219dd73-f984-419a-857b-cb38564cd8ea_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Tegallalang Rice Terraces, just outside Ubud.</figcaption></figure></div><p>Noise is coming from the caf&#233;s and terraces along the road. I&#8217;ve actually been planning to stop at one of those terraces to have something to drink and maybe eat a little before heading back. But then I see a Balinese couple smiling at me from their tiny terrace beside their rice field, inviting me to have a fresh coconut. I don&#8217;t even hesitate. I sit down, order a coconut, and spend the next few minutes playing with their cat.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ShW2!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5043d9b0-2db3-4662-b422-36a183abbb75_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ShW2!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5043d9b0-2db3-4662-b422-36a183abbb75_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ShW2!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5043d9b0-2db3-4662-b422-36a183abbb75_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ShW2!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5043d9b0-2db3-4662-b422-36a183abbb75_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ShW2!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5043d9b0-2db3-4662-b422-36a183abbb75_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ShW2!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5043d9b0-2db3-4662-b422-36a183abbb75_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/5043d9b0-2db3-4662-b422-36a183abbb75_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:162192,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;A Balinese couple standing beside a traveler in the rice fields of Tegallalang after sharing a fresh coconut at their small terrace.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/205040946?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5043d9b0-2db3-4662-b422-36a183abbb75_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="A Balinese couple standing beside a traveler in the rice fields of Tegallalang after sharing a fresh coconut at their small terrace." title="A Balinese couple standing beside a traveler in the rice fields of Tegallalang after sharing a fresh coconut at their small terrace." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ShW2!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5043d9b0-2db3-4662-b422-36a183abbb75_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ShW2!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5043d9b0-2db3-4662-b422-36a183abbb75_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ShW2!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5043d9b0-2db3-4662-b422-36a183abbb75_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ShW2!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5043d9b0-2db3-4662-b422-36a183abbb75_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">An unexpected stop for a fresh coconut with a Balinese couple</figcaption></figure></div><p>Sitting there and watching the wide rice fields where I was wandering just a little while ago, I realize that our plans are often made to be interrupted by what we find along the way. Sometimes those unexpected moments are welcoming enough to make us leave the original plan behind - and that&#8217;s not always a bad thing. Sometimes it&#8217;s just a small detour that makes the experience richer and gives us a different perspective. In the end, I&#8217;m still going to reach the road and get my Gojek back to Ubud - the destination hasn&#8217;t changed; only the experience has.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!xVAg!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!xVAg!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!xVAg!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!xVAg!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!xVAg!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!xVAg!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:196344,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Green rice terraces stretching across the valley at Tegallalang, surrounded by tropical vegetation and palm trees.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/205040946?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Green rice terraces stretching across the valley at Tegallalang, surrounded by tropical vegetation and palm trees." title="Green rice terraces stretching across the valley at Tegallalang, surrounded by tropical vegetation and palm trees." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!xVAg!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!xVAg!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!xVAg!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!xVAg!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d71ccbe-e598-47dc-914d-fd1eff7f2d74_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Sometimes the smallest detours become the most memorable part of the journey</figcaption></figure></div><p>This is one of the quiet gifts of do-it-yourself travel: having enough flexibility to adjust the journey when something feels more meaningful than the original plan. Without a fixed, rigid schedule, there&#8217;s time to notice what you genuinely want in the moment instead of simply moving on because that&#8217;s what the itinerary says. Sometimes this means changing everything; sometimes it&#8217;s only a small detour. But either way, it gives you the freedom to listen to yourself and to follow that quiet voice.</p><blockquote><p><em>Unexpectedly, the best part of the journey is the detour you&#8217;ve never planned - but this detour doesn&#8217;t take you away from your path; it brings you closer to yourself.</em></p></blockquote><div class="image-gallery-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;gallery&quot;:{&quot;images&quot;:[{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/59cf1f1a-63af-4857-86ca-ef674589c3fb_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/087a675d-076a-42b1-b5a3-49d266f23c5c_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/3d1f6cb2-23a6-41f9-81d5-37c33a2d42ba_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/0b0cdfe4-a098-4321-8147-6c5fe3669c22_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/53f8da90-eede-4723-b84c-dd42677f1dff_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/fe11acc4-42e4-44ac-ac82-ab72b52ed07d_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/7fe326cd-7c68-4702-9d7b-25084d7d52c6_800x600.jpeg&quot;}],&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;staticGalleryImage&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/png&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/cd1cf7fb-7450-424e-9be7-e5ebe55430ea_1456x1946.png&quot;}},&quot;isEditorNode&quot;:true}"></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div><p></p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[The Invisible Process]]></title><description><![CDATA[Discover how a traditional Balinese family makes coconut oil by hand&#8212;and how witnessing the process reveals truths the finished product never can.]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-invisible-process</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-invisible-process</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 26 Jun 2026 18:59:02 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dago!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am standing in a traditional Balinese courtyard in the village of Delodsema, some 25 km from Ubud. The host has just wrapped a colorful <em>sarong</em> around my waist as a gesture of respect before entering the kitchen. The large kitchen is open to the air yet sheltered from the rain - a space designed for everyday life rather than for visitors. Every object has its place, every meal cooked here follows its rhythm and process, shaped by years of practice rather than performance. In this secluded place at the back of a courtyard, traditions are not explained; they are simply lived, experienced, practiced.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!vr61!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe416e066-178c-4b51-971e-91b43bdac05b_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!vr61!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe416e066-178c-4b51-971e-91b43bdac05b_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!vr61!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe416e066-178c-4b51-971e-91b43bdac05b_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!vr61!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe416e066-178c-4b51-971e-91b43bdac05b_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!vr61!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe416e066-178c-4b51-971e-91b43bdac05b_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!vr61!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe416e066-178c-4b51-971e-91b43bdac05b_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/e416e066-178c-4b51-971e-91b43bdac05b_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:166234,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Traditional Balinese family compound in Delod Sema village, Bali, with stone walls, temple-style gateways, and lush tropical plants.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/203739147?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe416e066-178c-4b51-971e-91b43bdac05b_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Traditional Balinese family compound in Delod Sema village, Bali, with stone walls, temple-style gateways, and lush tropical plants." title="Traditional Balinese family compound in Delod Sema village, Bali, with stone walls, temple-style gateways, and lush tropical plants." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!vr61!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe416e066-178c-4b51-971e-91b43bdac05b_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!vr61!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe416e066-178c-4b51-971e-91b43bdac05b_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!vr61!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe416e066-178c-4b51-971e-91b43bdac05b_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!vr61!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe416e066-178c-4b51-971e-91b43bdac05b_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Traditional Balinese family compound, Delodsema village, Bali.</figcaption></figure></div><p>After we crack open the coconut and grate its flesh, we need to patiently squeeze it until thick, white coconut milk slowly fills the bowl beneath. </p><p>&#8220;This milk will later be heated over a wood fire until coconut oil naturally rises to the surface&#8221;, the hosts tell me.</p><p>Interesting, and strange at the same time... I follow each step carefully, fascinated by a process I have never really questioned before. Looking at the bowl in front of me, I find it surprisingly difficult to imagine how this simple liquid will eventually become the coconut oil I have been using in Bali.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!JAlR!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0c5d5c53-3cf8-4f22-b72f-973bbe9d546c_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!JAlR!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0c5d5c53-3cf8-4f22-b72f-973bbe9d546c_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!JAlR!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0c5d5c53-3cf8-4f22-b72f-973bbe9d546c_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!JAlR!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0c5d5c53-3cf8-4f22-b72f-973bbe9d546c_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!JAlR!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0c5d5c53-3cf8-4f22-b72f-973bbe9d546c_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!JAlR!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0c5d5c53-3cf8-4f22-b72f-973bbe9d546c_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/0c5d5c53-3cf8-4f22-b72f-973bbe9d546c_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:121615,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Freshly grated coconut soaking in water before being squeezed by hand to produce coconut milk.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/203739147?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0c5d5c53-3cf8-4f22-b72f-973bbe9d546c_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Freshly grated coconut soaking in water before being squeezed by hand to produce coconut milk." title="Freshly grated coconut soaking in water before being squeezed by hand to produce coconut milk." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!JAlR!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0c5d5c53-3cf8-4f22-b72f-973bbe9d546c_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!JAlR!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0c5d5c53-3cf8-4f22-b72f-973bbe9d546c_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!JAlR!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0c5d5c53-3cf8-4f22-b72f-973bbe9d546c_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!JAlR!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0c5d5c53-3cf8-4f22-b72f-973bbe9d546c_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Freshly grated coconut soaking before being squeezed into coconut milk.</figcaption></figure></div><p>Being part of the process reminds me how often we believe we understand something simply because we know its final form. We see the finished product and assume we know its story, when in reality the invisible steps behind it may be entirely different from what we&#8217;ve imagined. Only when we witness the process itself do we begin to understand what is actually true.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dago!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dago!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dago!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dago!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dago!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dago!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:116319,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Fresh coconut oil being filtered through a fine mesh into a small glass bottle in a traditional Balinese kitchen.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/203739147?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Fresh coconut oil being filtered through a fine mesh into a small glass bottle in a traditional Balinese kitchen." title="Fresh coconut oil being filtered through a fine mesh into a small glass bottle in a traditional Balinese kitchen." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dago!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dago!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dago!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dago!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F612a00cb-2c97-4e8a-86ac-e4a9afc011f5_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">The final step: filtering freshly made coconut oil by hand.</figcaption></figure></div><p>This is one of the quiet gifts of travel. When we step into a different culture with genuine curiosity, we are invited into the reality of how things are truly done. It is in these ordinary moments (and not in the famous landmarks) that our assumptions gently dissolve, making room for a deeper understanding of the world and of the many ways life can be lived.</p><blockquote><p><em>Some truths can only be learned by staying with the process, and the road quietly reveals what the finished product never can.</em></p></blockquote><div class="image-gallery-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;gallery&quot;:{&quot;images&quot;:[{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/87f99183-2e9c-4bc1-8822-a7aba853cab3_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/c16998a5-df39-4355-be8c-1bf4ff048057_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/6a1ebe89-8a11-4019-9fed-96b07438ee09_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/47dfa711-5816-47a1-9453-c8a87d51e02f_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/98d76cdc-1cf2-45ea-ade2-e2215b03496d_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/77bf578e-679b-412a-b643-d47c1bb79f9a_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/2b677055-6657-42a4-828f-d5d9ed13595c_800x600.jpeg&quot;}],&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;staticGalleryImage&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/png&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/58355d9d-dbfb-4fc0-8d14-6028d4c2d27e_1456x1946.png&quot;}},&quot;isEditorNode&quot;:true}"></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[The Last Massage in Bali]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 45 - Swity Massage & Spa, Ubud &#8211; Bali, Indonesia]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-last-massage-in-bali</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-last-massage-in-bali</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Thu, 25 Jun 2026 19:41:00 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IueV!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The familiar sound of scooters drifts in from the small street outside Swity Salon &amp; Spa. The salon is tiny, just two rooms tucked away in a quiet corner of Ubud. A few patches of plaster have fallen from the walls, and near the lamp, a small gecko clicks its usual greeting, watching guests come and go - it has been part of every story that passed through this place.</p><p>Ayu has just finished my massage. I get dressed, walk to the front desk, and pay for what I know is my last session before leaving Bali. </p><p>&#8212; Can we take a photo together? I ask her before I go. </p><p>She smiles, quickly fixes her hair, clips a small tuft at the top of her head, and stands beside me. She is so small when standing next to me. After the photo, she wraps her arms around me in a long hug. We finally let go and I notice tears in her eyes. </p><p>&#8212; Thank you for coming to me, she says softly. Hope to see you again &#8230;</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IueV!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IueV!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IueV!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IueV!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IueV!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IueV!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:128117,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Iuliana standing next to Ayu, her massage therapist, inside a small massage salon in Ubud, Bali. Both are smiling after their final session together before Iuliana leaves Bali.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/202758892?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Iuliana standing next to Ayu, her massage therapist, inside a small massage salon in Ubud, Bali. Both are smiling after their final session together before Iuliana leaves Bali." title="Iuliana standing next to Ayu, her massage therapist, inside a small massage salon in Ubud, Bali. Both are smiling after their final session together before Iuliana leaves Bali." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IueV!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IueV!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IueV!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IueV!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0f02f9e3-f966-4578-8df2-acd4944596f8_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Ayu and me after my last massage at Swity Salon &amp; Spa in Ubud</figcaption></figure></div><p>For weeks, coming here has been part of the rhythm of my days in Ubud. I have never planned for it to become anything more than a massage, but Ayu&#8217;s hands made me come back several times a week. I would simply message her+, walk over, and return again a few days later. Then repeat, and repeat, and repeat. Somewhere between those repetitions, something has shifted. </p><p>What surprises me is not how much I&#8217;ve enjoyed the massages, but how difficult it feels to say goodbye to a practice that has quietly found its place in my life and it has quietly become a habit. The truth is that this practice belongs only to this version of my life. </p><p>Living in Bali has made it possible in a way my life in Romania still doesn't. It hasn&#8217;t been a grand experience or a life-changing event: it&#8217;s been something much smaller - a repeated action woven into everyday life. And yet, looking back, I can see how much of the texture of these weeks has been built through those simple repetitions.</p><blockquote><p><em>We don&#8217;t always notice when a repeated practice becomes part of us. We often discover what it has changed only after it has already become a habit and we are forced to let it go.</em></p></blockquote><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div><p></p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[What We Love Changes the Road]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 44 - Traditional Balinese Dances at Pura Dalem, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/what-we-love-changes-the-road</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/what-we-love-changes-the-road</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Mon, 15 Jun 2026 07:22:58 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!M8Ve!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The afternoon rain is gone and it is already getting dark in Ubud. The lights around Pura Dalem temple start coming on one by one while scooters continue to buzz along the main road. The mosquitoes show up almost immediately and, as usual, so do the people selling repellent spray. Everybody is waiting for the dance performance to begin - mosquitoes included, probably already choosing their dinner &#8230;</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!brji!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1b78e93b-eb6a-46d2-8772-67f321f13d2d_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!brji!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1b78e93b-eb6a-46d2-8772-67f321f13d2d_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!brji!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1b78e93b-eb6a-46d2-8772-67f321f13d2d_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!brji!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1b78e93b-eb6a-46d2-8772-67f321f13d2d_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!brji!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1b78e93b-eb6a-46d2-8772-67f321f13d2d_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!brji!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1b78e93b-eb6a-46d2-8772-67f321f13d2d_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/1b78e93b-eb6a-46d2-8772-67f321f13d2d_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:199646,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Traditional Balinese dance performance stage at Pura Dalem Temple in Ubud, Bali, illuminated at night with musicians and performers preparing on stage.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/202022347?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1b78e93b-eb6a-46d2-8772-67f321f13d2d_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Traditional Balinese dance performance stage at Pura Dalem Temple in Ubud, Bali, illuminated at night with musicians and performers preparing on stage." title="Traditional Balinese dance performance stage at Pura Dalem Temple in Ubud, Bali, illuminated at night with musicians and performers preparing on stage." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!brji!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1b78e93b-eb6a-46d2-8772-67f321f13d2d_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!brji!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1b78e93b-eb6a-46d2-8772-67f321f13d2d_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!brji!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1b78e93b-eb6a-46d2-8772-67f321f13d2d_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!brji!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1b78e93b-eb6a-46d2-8772-67f321f13d2d_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Waiting for the performance to begin at Pura Dalem, while Ubud slowly shifts from rain-soaked afternoon to evening</figcaption></figure></div><p>A few minutes before the show starts, I check the battery on my camera. Half gone. I find a socket and plug it in. The power trips instantly, so now I need another socket. By this point I&#8217;m also looking for a better seat in front of the stage and occasionally waving away mosquitoes: nothing dramatic, just the usual small things that happen while traveling.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!FzXM!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa2282fcd-4e37-49ec-8711-7aa2a67a43d9_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!FzXM!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa2282fcd-4e37-49ec-8711-7aa2a67a43d9_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!FzXM!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa2282fcd-4e37-49ec-8711-7aa2a67a43d9_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!FzXM!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa2282fcd-4e37-49ec-8711-7aa2a67a43d9_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!FzXM!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa2282fcd-4e37-49ec-8711-7aa2a67a43d9_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!FzXM!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa2282fcd-4e37-49ec-8711-7aa2a67a43d9_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/a2282fcd-4e37-49ec-8711-7aa2a67a43d9_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:182808,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Three Balinese dancers in traditional yellow costumes performing on stage at Pura Dalem Temple in Ubud, Bali.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/202022347?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa2282fcd-4e37-49ec-8711-7aa2a67a43d9_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Three Balinese dancers in traditional yellow costumes performing on stage at Pura Dalem Temple in Ubud, Bali." title="Three Balinese dancers in traditional yellow costumes performing on stage at Pura Dalem Temple in Ubud, Bali." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!FzXM!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa2282fcd-4e37-49ec-8711-7aa2a67a43d9_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!FzXM!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa2282fcd-4e37-49ec-8711-7aa2a67a43d9_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!FzXM!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa2282fcd-4e37-49ec-8711-7aa2a67a43d9_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!FzXM!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa2282fcd-4e37-49ec-8711-7aa2a67a43d9_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 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Travel has been showing me this for years. Photography is one of those things that matters enough that I don&#8217;t question the effort. I will wait thirty minutes for better light, sometimes even an hour. I&#8217;ll come back to the same place the next day if I think the photo is worth it. I don&#8217;t mind inconveniences when they protect something I love.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!M8Ve!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!M8Ve!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!M8Ve!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!M8Ve!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!M8Ve!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!M8Ve!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:201927,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Barong character in ornate traditional Balinese costume performing during an evening cultural dance show in Ubud, Bali.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/202022347?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Barong character in ornate traditional Balinese costume performing during an evening cultural dance show in Ubud, Bali." title="Barong character in ornate traditional Balinese costume performing during an evening cultural dance show in Ubud, Bali." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!M8Ve!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!M8Ve!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!M8Ve!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!M8Ve!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F65d2b0c5-e17f-4778-971e-3614395c3afa_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Some photographs remind me why I never question the effort</figcaption></figure></div><p>Maybe that&#8217;s why some travel challenges never feel like challenges at all. When there is something on the other side that genuinely matters to you, you simply deal with what needs to be dealt with and continue enjoying the experience. It never crosses your mind to give up.</p><blockquote><p><em>The things we truly love rarely ask us to avoid challenges; they simply make those challenges feel worth moving through.</em></p></blockquote><div class="image-gallery-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;gallery&quot;:{&quot;images&quot;:[{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/ff859edb-673c-463d-a070-f2334e9b8f2f_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/dacfe227-6406-449c-90a1-e99df184684d_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/71f3bd49-2152-4e04-9cf2-e7b1ac414b74_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/573405e1-29ca-4475-beab-669043f71eca_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/594320a3-729c-44aa-82c2-2115556d74ce_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/4e7ed6f5-c4c0-4b0f-ba32-171f929888bd_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/7971d0fe-874e-484d-b363-e973876bf7f2_800x600.jpeg&quot;}],&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;staticGalleryImage&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/png&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/1b495e36-b1da-466a-a5d4-5306949eb6d4_1456x1946.png&quot;}},&quot;isEditorNode&quot;:true}"></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div><p></p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[The Difference Between Watching and Doing]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 43 - Five hours inside a miniature world at Keliki Painting Workshop, Keliki Village, Bali, Indonesia]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-difference-between-watching-and-doing</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-difference-between-watching-and-doing</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2026 07:58:52 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Pr1X!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>On the veranda of Wayan&#8217;s house in Keliki village, the sheet of paper in front of me is almost completely covered in tiny lines, dots, shadows, and rice stalks. Brushes, paint, and a glass of black tea are scattered across the table. Somewhere beyond the veranda, scooters pass on the road, while Wayan&#8217;s young son runs around the house. A short rain shower passes while I am painting, and now the sun is out again.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!0wub!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F332e5d5f-61aa-4cf2-8e87-c7e6a531461f_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!0wub!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F332e5d5f-61aa-4cf2-8e87-c7e6a531461f_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!0wub!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F332e5d5f-61aa-4cf2-8e87-c7e6a531461f_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!0wub!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F332e5d5f-61aa-4cf2-8e87-c7e6a531461f_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!0wub!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F332e5d5f-61aa-4cf2-8e87-c7e6a531461f_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!0wub!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F332e5d5f-61aa-4cf2-8e87-c7e6a531461f_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/332e5d5f-61aa-4cf2-8e87-c7e6a531461f_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:151941,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Traditional Balinese family compound entrance in Keliki Village, Bali, where the Keliki miniature painting workshop takes place.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/201046266?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F332e5d5f-61aa-4cf2-8e87-c7e6a531461f_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Traditional Balinese family compound entrance in Keliki Village, Bali, where the Keliki miniature painting workshop takes place." title="Traditional Balinese family compound entrance in Keliki Village, Bali, where the Keliki miniature painting workshop takes place." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!0wub!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F332e5d5f-61aa-4cf2-8e87-c7e6a531461f_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!0wub!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F332e5d5f-61aa-4cf2-8e87-c7e6a531461f_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!0wub!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F332e5d5f-61aa-4cf2-8e87-c7e6a531461f_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!0wub!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F332e5d5f-61aa-4cf2-8e87-c7e6a531461f_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">The entrance to Wayan&#8217;s family compound in Keliki Village</figcaption></figure></div><p>Keliki painting was developed in this small Balinese village and became known for its miniature scale and extraordinary level of detail: a way of fitting entire worlds into spaces no larger than a sheet of paper, small enough for travelers to take home, too. A small painting, but not a small practice.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!t1TA!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8d040c76-1998-43d7-b3eb-25548ad3cb8d_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!t1TA!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8d040c76-1998-43d7-b3eb-25548ad3cb8d_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!t1TA!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8d040c76-1998-43d7-b3eb-25548ad3cb8d_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!t1TA!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8d040c76-1998-43d7-b3eb-25548ad3cb8d_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!t1TA!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8d040c76-1998-43d7-b3eb-25548ad3cb8d_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!t1TA!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8d040c76-1998-43d7-b3eb-25548ad3cb8d_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/8d040c76-1998-43d7-b3eb-25548ad3cb8d_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:159692,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Woman painting a miniature Keliki artwork at a workshop in Keliki Village, surrounded by brushes, paint, and reference drawings.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/201046266?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8d040c76-1998-43d7-b3eb-25548ad3cb8d_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Woman painting a miniature Keliki artwork at a workshop in Keliki Village, surrounded by brushes, paint, and reference drawings." title="Woman painting a miniature Keliki artwork at a workshop in Keliki Village, surrounded by brushes, paint, and reference drawings." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!t1TA!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8d040c76-1998-43d7-b3eb-25548ad3cb8d_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!t1TA!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8d040c76-1998-43d7-b3eb-25548ad3cb8d_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!t1TA!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8d040c76-1998-43d7-b3eb-25548ad3cb8d_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!t1TA!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8d040c76-1998-43d7-b3eb-25548ad3cb8d_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Several hours into the workshop, still adding tiny details</figcaption></figure></div><p>&#8211; Is it done?, I keep asking Wayan for what feels like the seventh time. How much longer do we still have to go?</p><p>I finally place the last shadow on the painting. Or at least I think it&#8217;s the last one. Throughout the afternoon, every time I believe I&#8217;m finished, another rice stalk, another tiny detail, another line appears. </p><p>&#8211; Now you are done, Wayan confirms, nodding with a smile of satisfaction on his face.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TIaQ!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdea4e8cb-bbc7-4fae-9692-32c85dfc1dd4_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TIaQ!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdea4e8cb-bbc7-4fae-9692-32c85dfc1dd4_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TIaQ!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdea4e8cb-bbc7-4fae-9692-32c85dfc1dd4_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TIaQ!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdea4e8cb-bbc7-4fae-9692-32c85dfc1dd4_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TIaQ!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdea4e8cb-bbc7-4fae-9692-32c85dfc1dd4_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TIaQ!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdea4e8cb-bbc7-4fae-9692-32c85dfc1dd4_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TIaQ!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdea4e8cb-bbc7-4fae-9692-32c85dfc1dd4_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TIaQ!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdea4e8cb-bbc7-4fae-9692-32c85dfc1dd4_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TIaQ!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdea4e8cb-bbc7-4fae-9692-32c85dfc1dd4_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TIaQ!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdea4e8cb-bbc7-4fae-9692-32c85dfc1dd4_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Every rice terrace, leaf, and shadow is painted by hand</figcaption></figure></div><p>I put the brush down and realize how exhausted I am. Not pleasantly tired. Properly tired. As if I have spent the afternoon doing something physically demanding rather than sitting on a chair painting miniature details. </p><p>&#8211; I can&#8217;t wait to get back to Sayan, eat, and go straight to sleep!. I tell Wayan while laughing and admiring my piece of miniature Keliki art.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Pr1X!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Pr1X!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Pr1X!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Pr1X!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Pr1X!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Pr1X!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/f84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:147851,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Original Keliki painting design beside a completed hand-painted miniature artwork inspired by Balinese rice terraces.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/201046266?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Original Keliki painting design beside a completed hand-painted miniature artwork inspired by Balinese rice terraces." title="Original Keliki painting design beside a completed hand-painted miniature artwork inspired by Balinese rice terraces." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Pr1X!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Pr1X!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Pr1X!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Pr1X!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff84fa29b-a831-4060-972c-66600674c37a_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">The original design and my finished miniature version</figcaption></figure></div><p>We often think we understand something when we look at it from a distance: a tradition, a craft, a culture, an experience. From the outside, this workshop looks calm, almost meditative - a few hours of painting in a village near Ubud. But reality reveals something completely different from within. What seems simple from afar often contains layers of attention, patience, skill, and effort that only become visible once we participate in it ourselves. Experience has a way of dismantling assumptions and replacing them with something much more valuable: understanding.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWMp!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8bfc2604-cb31-4374-8dcf-30a94b3a6bfa_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWMp!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8bfc2604-cb31-4374-8dcf-30a94b3a6bfa_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWMp!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8bfc2604-cb31-4374-8dcf-30a94b3a6bfa_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWMp!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8bfc2604-cb31-4374-8dcf-30a94b3a6bfa_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWMp!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8bfc2604-cb31-4374-8dcf-30a94b3a6bfa_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWMp!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8bfc2604-cb31-4374-8dcf-30a94b3a6bfa_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/8bfc2604-cb31-4374-8dcf-30a94b3a6bfa_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:171233,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Workshop participant and Balinese artist Wayan holding completed Keliki miniature paintings after the workshop in Keliki Village.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/201046266?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8bfc2604-cb31-4374-8dcf-30a94b3a6bfa_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Workshop participant and Balinese artist Wayan holding completed Keliki miniature paintings after the workshop in Keliki Village." title="Workshop participant and Balinese artist Wayan holding completed Keliki miniature paintings after the workshop in Keliki Village." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWMp!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8bfc2604-cb31-4374-8dcf-30a94b3a6bfa_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWMp!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8bfc2604-cb31-4374-8dcf-30a94b3a6bfa_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWMp!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8bfc2604-cb31-4374-8dcf-30a94b3a6bfa_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWMp!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8bfc2604-cb31-4374-8dcf-30a94b3a6bfa_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">With Wayan after five hours inside a miniature world</figcaption></figure></div><p>One of the quiet gifts of travel is that it constantly moves us from observation to participation. We stop looking at cultures, traditions, and ways of life from the outside and begin stepping inside them. And once we do, our perspective changes. Not because someone explains a new reality to us and we try to apply it, but because we encounter and experience it directly. The lesson is no longer intellectual; it becomes lived.</p><blockquote><p><em>Some things can only be understood from the inside, where practice reveals what observation cannot. </em></p></blockquote><div class="image-gallery-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;gallery&quot;:{&quot;images&quot;:[{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/8f5e310f-8e42-462a-8e60-e5fa3e15446f_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/295a4be2-1e9d-4d4e-83da-39d58de47707_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/02d88091-8df0-4cc9-9b44-530d8afa540d_800x600.jpeg&quot;}],&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;staticGalleryImage&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/png&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/99203e7a-b834-40a0-b8a8-7e20e89abb37_1456x474.png&quot;}},&quot;isEditorNode&quot;:true}"></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[WHEN THE PAST FEELS PRESENT]]></title><description><![CDATA[Field Recordings: Renaissance grandeur in the heart of Bali, where architecture quietly collapses the distance between past and present, Ubud&#8211;Sayan, Bali, Indonesia (March 2026)]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/when-the-past-feels-present</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/when-the-past-feels-present</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Thu, 04 Jun 2026 07:59:28 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://api.substack.com/feed/podcast/200007778/6494a6e90627ca24677ff8333e14d98e.mp3" length="0" type="audio/mpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A few unexpected moments beneath the dome of Blanco&#8217;s villa &#8212; wandering through Renaissance proportions, theatrical spaces, and vibrant paintings, while Bali quietly waits beyond the walls: for a brief moment, a familiar fascination from twenty-five years ago feels completely present again.</p><blockquote><p><em>Sometimes, what fascinates us today is the same thing that fascinated us decades ago; only now we understand that it was never random, but a quiet clue about who we have been all along.</em></p></blockquote><p class="button-wrapper" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe now&quot;,&quot;action&quot;:null,&quot;class&quot;:null}" data-component-name="ButtonCreateButton"><a class="button primary" href="https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?"><span>Subscribe now</span></a></p><p></p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[What We Recognize, We Rarely Lose]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 42 - What began as instinct has become a long-term conscious practice at Blanco Renaissance Museum, Ubud&#8211;Sayan, Bali, Indonesia]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/what-we-recognize-we-rarely-lose</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/what-we-recognize-we-rarely-lose</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 03 Jun 2026 07:36:57 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TtzJ!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am wandering through the spacious interiors of the Blanco Renaissance Museum, between Ubud and Sayan. Antonio Blanco was the Spanish-born artist who made Bali his home and became known for blending European artistic influences with the sensuality, color, and mythology of the island. His villa feels unexpectedly European, almost detached from the tropical world outside its walls. I can see the paintings spread across the walls, their vivid colors emerging from the soft shadows of the interior. Parrots can be heard somewhere in the garden, but inside, what dominates is the sense of space, proportion, and volume. The atmosphere feels unmistakably Renaissance, an unusual presence in the middle of Bali. </p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!WJyr!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffd54a51d-9e7f-4a05-b01a-d25b3875ae60_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!WJyr!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffd54a51d-9e7f-4a05-b01a-d25b3875ae60_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!WJyr!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffd54a51d-9e7f-4a05-b01a-d25b3875ae60_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!WJyr!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffd54a51d-9e7f-4a05-b01a-d25b3875ae60_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!WJyr!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffd54a51d-9e7f-4a05-b01a-d25b3875ae60_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!WJyr!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffd54a51d-9e7f-4a05-b01a-d25b3875ae60_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/fd54a51d-9e7f-4a05-b01a-d25b3875ae60_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:194601,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Balinese stone sculpture surrounded by lush tropical vegetation and a traditional red ceremonial umbrella in the gardens of the Blanco Renaissance Museum.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/199973483?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffd54a51d-9e7f-4a05-b01a-d25b3875ae60_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Balinese stone sculpture surrounded by lush tropical vegetation and a traditional red ceremonial umbrella in the gardens of the Blanco Renaissance Museum." title="Balinese stone sculpture surrounded by lush tropical vegetation and a traditional red ceremonial umbrella in the gardens of the Blanco Renaissance Museum." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!WJyr!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffd54a51d-9e7f-4a05-b01a-d25b3875ae60_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!WJyr!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffd54a51d-9e7f-4a05-b01a-d25b3875ae60_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!WJyr!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffd54a51d-9e7f-4a05-b01a-d25b3875ae60_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!WJyr!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffd54a51d-9e7f-4a05-b01a-d25b3875ae60_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">The tropical world surrounding the Blanco Renaissance Museum</figcaption></figure></div><p>I walk up the spiral staircase and stop at the balcony railing of the main villa-museum. Looking down into the open central space, I find myself unexpectedly captivated by the architecture around me. For a moment, Bali disappears. The proportions, the dome above, the feeling of the space itself pull me somewhere else entirely.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TtzJ!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TtzJ!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TtzJ!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TtzJ!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TtzJ!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TtzJ!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/fb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:140679,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Interior dome and circular gallery of the Blanco Renaissance Museum viewed from below, revealing its Renaissance-inspired architecture.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/199973483?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Interior dome and circular gallery of the Blanco Renaissance Museum viewed from below, revealing its Renaissance-inspired architecture." title="Interior dome and circular gallery of the Blanco Renaissance Museum viewed from below, revealing its Renaissance-inspired architecture." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TtzJ!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TtzJ!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TtzJ!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TtzJ!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffb531334-7105-45d7-b593-f62f487b1dd3_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 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Seeing Palladio&#8217;s Villa Rotonda felt unbelievable at the time - as if I had stepped inside the drawings from the architectural manuals I studied. I did not have much money, but I always found a way to go and see every building and site I had studied in architectural history classes. At that time, I never asked myself why these places mattered so much to me. I was simply drawn to them.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!18OI!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc72a3d75-d63b-414c-be39-edce63b1541d_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!18OI!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc72a3d75-d63b-414c-be39-edce63b1541d_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!18OI!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc72a3d75-d63b-414c-be39-edce63b1541d_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!18OI!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc72a3d75-d63b-414c-be39-edce63b1541d_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!18OI!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc72a3d75-d63b-414c-be39-edce63b1541d_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!18OI!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc72a3d75-d63b-414c-be39-edce63b1541d_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/c72a3d75-d63b-414c-be39-edce63b1541d_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:107819,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Architectural drawing of the Blanco Renaissance Museum showing its symmetrical fa&#231;ade and central dome.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/199973483?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc72a3d75-d63b-414c-be39-edce63b1541d_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Architectural drawing of the Blanco Renaissance Museum showing its symmetrical fa&#231;ade and central dome." title="Architectural drawing of the Blanco Renaissance Museum showing its symmetrical fa&#231;ade and central dome." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!18OI!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc72a3d75-d63b-414c-be39-edce63b1541d_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!18OI!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc72a3d75-d63b-414c-be39-edce63b1541d_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!18OI!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc72a3d75-d63b-414c-be39-edce63b1541d_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!18OI!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc72a3d75-d63b-414c-be39-edce63b1541d_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Architecture has been speaking the same language to me for decades</figcaption></figure></div><p>Standing here today, at the Blanco Renaissance Museum, I realize that some of the things that fascinate us most deeply appear long before we know who we truly are. We often spend decades discovering what they were trying to tell us. The young woman who crossed Italy to see Palladio&#8217;s work was already following something authentic. She was connected to herself instinctively, even if she had no language for it.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!3ZaY!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2004f587-9a6c-4856-83c8-caeea0053275_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!3ZaY!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2004f587-9a6c-4856-83c8-caeea0053275_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!3ZaY!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2004f587-9a6c-4856-83c8-caeea0053275_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!3ZaY!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2004f587-9a6c-4856-83c8-caeea0053275_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!3ZaY!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2004f587-9a6c-4856-83c8-caeea0053275_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!3ZaY!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2004f587-9a6c-4856-83c8-caeea0053275_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/2004f587-9a6c-4856-83c8-caeea0053275_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:119930,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Historic black-and-white portrait of Antonio Blanco displayed inside the museum.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/199973483?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2004f587-9a6c-4856-83c8-caeea0053275_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Historic black-and-white portrait of Antonio Blanco displayed inside the museum." title="Historic black-and-white portrait of Antonio Blanco displayed inside the museum." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!3ZaY!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2004f587-9a6c-4856-83c8-caeea0053275_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!3ZaY!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2004f587-9a6c-4856-83c8-caeea0053275_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!3ZaY!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2004f587-9a6c-4856-83c8-caeea0053275_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!3ZaY!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2004f587-9a6c-4856-83c8-caeea0053275_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 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What we live unconsciously can also be lost unconsciously. In the years that followed, I drifted away from that inner voice that led me across Italy without even realizing it. There were years of anxiety, depression, adaptation, and trying to become what seemed necessary. Yet standing here now, feeling the same excitement I felt twenty-five years ago, I know that the fascination never disappeared. It was waiting to be recognized, practiced, and integrated.</p><blockquote><p><em>Travel did not create that part of me that loves exploring historic places and villas. It helped me see it and anchor it more deeply in my life.</em></p></blockquote><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iaSj!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F87758e7e-11c2-4d55-85ab-e2be54e9bd77_600x800.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iaSj!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F87758e7e-11c2-4d55-85ab-e2be54e9bd77_600x800.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iaSj!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F87758e7e-11c2-4d55-85ab-e2be54e9bd77_600x800.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iaSj!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F87758e7e-11c2-4d55-85ab-e2be54e9bd77_600x800.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iaSj!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F87758e7e-11c2-4d55-85ab-e2be54e9bd77_600x800.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iaSj!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F87758e7e-11c2-4d55-85ab-e2be54e9bd77_600x800.jpeg" width="600" height="800" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/87758e7e-11c2-4d55-85ab-e2be54e9bd77_600x800.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:800,&quot;width&quot;:600,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:149995,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Expressive painting by Antonio Blanco depicting a Balinese female figure in loose, colorful brushstrokes.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/199973483?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F87758e7e-11c2-4d55-85ab-e2be54e9bd77_600x800.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Expressive painting by Antonio Blanco depicting a Balinese female figure in loose, colorful brushstrokes." title="Expressive painting by Antonio Blanco depicting a Balinese female figure in loose, colorful brushstrokes." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iaSj!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F87758e7e-11c2-4d55-85ab-e2be54e9bd77_600x800.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iaSj!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F87758e7e-11c2-4d55-85ab-e2be54e9bd77_600x800.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iaSj!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F87758e7e-11c2-4d55-85ab-e2be54e9bd77_600x800.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iaSj!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F87758e7e-11c2-4d55-85ab-e2be54e9bd77_600x800.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Some fascinations stay with us long before we understand why</figcaption></figure></div><p>Over the years, travel has repeatedly brought me back to the things that make me feel most alive and fulfilled. For me, it can be architecture, museums, photography, or simply the discovery of a place I have never seen before. For someone else, it may be hiking through a forest, watching a sunrise, or sitting quietly with a coffee overlooking a river. The form is different, but the experience is the same: a moment when something inside says: <em>&#8220;This matters to me. This is who I am.&#8221;</em></p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nH5u!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc36f2eb4-1aea-4a26-90bc-62764cf562c7_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nH5u!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc36f2eb4-1aea-4a26-90bc-62764cf562c7_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nH5u!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc36f2eb4-1aea-4a26-90bc-62764cf562c7_800x600.jpeg 848w, 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data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/c36f2eb4-1aea-4a26-90bc-62764cf562c7_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:144175,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Woman exploring Antonio Blanco's preserved studio while observing one of his artworks inside the museum.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/199973483?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc36f2eb4-1aea-4a26-90bc-62764cf562c7_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Woman exploring Antonio Blanco's preserved studio while observing one of his artworks inside the museum." title="Woman exploring Antonio Blanco's preserved studio while observing one of his artworks inside the museum." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nH5u!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc36f2eb4-1aea-4a26-90bc-62764cf562c7_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nH5u!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc36f2eb4-1aea-4a26-90bc-62764cf562c7_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nH5u!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc36f2eb4-1aea-4a26-90bc-62764cf562c7_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nH5u!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc36f2eb4-1aea-4a26-90bc-62764cf562c7_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Sometimes the road does not change who we are. It helps us recognize what has been there all along</figcaption></figure></div><p>The difference is that today I notice what makes me happy and fulfilled. And once you truly recognize something that brings you joy, pleasure, and excitement, it becomes much harder to lose. Awareness changes the relationship. What was once an instinct becomes a choice. What was once a coincidence becomes a conscious practice. Little by little, through repetition, the connection grows stronger and more stable - until it feels like home again.</p><blockquote><p><em>Sometimes the road does not change who we are. It simply helps us recognize what has been there all along. And once we truly see it, it becomes much harder to lose.</em></p></blockquote><div class="image-gallery-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;gallery&quot;:{&quot;images&quot;:[{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/5a57815b-0a91-48e6-93bf-4aa990aa331a_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/21be9be5-e375-4b99-ba1e-b2fa87bfd205_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/52771dc1-89be-4267-8932-1dab195dfe59_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/714b7b3e-dd21-43a7-928d-67a9e9ab2bb0_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/99ca1adf-f8f1-42cf-867b-93681c0eccd3_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/dd5f1841-673e-476c-a1bc-6e85916d5428_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/71907323-d9dd-4afa-b5bc-64f7a1fd299a_600x800.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/5473de0b-0988-401d-b075-897b23514468_600x800.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/db717a47-fee5-4b36-86d7-2b09e2c07ca0_800x600.jpeg&quot;}],&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;staticGalleryImage&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/png&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/9fe5c26d-3936-41b7-b1fc-b968f01b41c9_1456x1454.png&quot;}},&quot;isEditorNode&quot;:true}"></div><p>P.S. I have no photographs from those visits to Palladio&#8217;s villas. Digital cameras did not exist yet, and the few pictures I took with a heavy film camera never turned out particularly well. </p><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Learning the Shape of Silver]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 41 - Making my first silver ring at Gede's Workshop in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/learning-the-shape-of-silver</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/learning-the-shape-of-silver</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Thu, 28 May 2026 18:07:49 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!2gTB!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The silver workshop in Ubud is open directly to the street, so the sound of motorcycles keeps passing in the background while different stages of silver-making happen at long wooden tables inside. At one table, silver is being melted. At another, thin silver strips are shaped and bent by hand. Further down, someone polishes a finished piece until it catches the light. Everything is done manually, slowly, with small repetitive movements. Gede - a small middle-aged Balinese man who speaks only a little English, moves quietly through the workshop like he has done this thousands of times before.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!2gTB!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!2gTB!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!2gTB!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!2gTB!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!2gTB!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!2gTB!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:147870,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Traditional silver-making tools and melting station inside a small open-air silver workshop in Ubud, Bali.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/199632786?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Traditional silver-making tools and melting station inside a small open-air silver workshop in Ubud, Bali." title="Traditional silver-making tools and melting station inside a small open-air silver workshop in Ubud, Bali." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!2gTB!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!2gTB!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!2gTB!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!2gTB!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7ca5435b-5667-4839-b96a-9dc1c4d113ec_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">The first stage of the process begins with melting silver by hand</figcaption></figure></div><p>Gede takes a few small silver beads and weighs them carefully before placing them into a small container. Then he starts melting them with a flame he controls by pressing an air pedal with his foot, almost like lighting a lighter again and again. The silver melts surprisingly fast. I sit there watching, slightly amazed, as the liquid silver changes shape in seconds before Gede  pours it into a mold and leaves it to cool down for the next step.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HRY_!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb0c21730-7beb-4e76-808b-adb89610c8d3_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HRY_!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb0c21730-7beb-4e76-808b-adb89610c8d3_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HRY_!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb0c21730-7beb-4e76-808b-adb89610c8d3_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HRY_!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb0c21730-7beb-4e76-808b-adb89610c8d3_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HRY_!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb0c21730-7beb-4e76-808b-adb89610c8d3_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HRY_!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb0c21730-7beb-4e76-808b-adb89610c8d3_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/b0c21730-7beb-4e76-808b-adb89610c8d3_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:127588,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;A Balinese silver artisan shaping a handmade silver ring on a wooden workbench in Ubud, Bali.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/199632786?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb0c21730-7beb-4e76-808b-adb89610c8d3_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="A Balinese silver artisan shaping a handmade silver ring on a wooden workbench in Ubud, Bali." title="A Balinese silver artisan shaping a handmade silver ring on a wooden workbench in Ubud, Bali." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HRY_!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb0c21730-7beb-4e76-808b-adb89610c8d3_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HRY_!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb0c21730-7beb-4e76-808b-adb89610c8d3_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HRY_!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb0c21730-7beb-4e76-808b-adb89610c8d3_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HRY_!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb0c21730-7beb-4e76-808b-adb89610c8d3_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Gede carefully shapes the silver ring by hand before the final polishing stage</figcaption></figure></div><p>Gede shows me each step first and then leaves me to try it myself. Trying to do the work reminds me how many things I still don&#8217;t know about the world. In that moment, I realize how easily my attention sharpens when I step into something completely unfamiliar. I try to follow the process too, but my hands move slowly and awkwardly compared to Gede &#8217;s quiet precision after years of doing this every day. Even when Gede eventually takes over to finish what I cannot do properly yet, simply watching him still keeps me anchored in the present moment.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OhW3!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5503f102-2f00-46b1-8bc9-d32a6dc88516_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OhW3!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5503f102-2f00-46b1-8bc9-d32a6dc88516_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OhW3!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5503f102-2f00-46b1-8bc9-d32a6dc88516_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OhW3!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5503f102-2f00-46b1-8bc9-d32a6dc88516_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OhW3!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5503f102-2f00-46b1-8bc9-d32a6dc88516_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OhW3!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5503f102-2f00-46b1-8bc9-d32a6dc88516_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/5503f102-2f00-46b1-8bc9-d32a6dc88516_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:102672,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Close-up of a handmade silver ring worn on a finger after a silver-making workshop in Ubud, Bali.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/199632786?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5503f102-2f00-46b1-8bc9-d32a6dc88516_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Close-up of a handmade silver ring worn on a finger after a silver-making workshop in Ubud, Bali." title="Close-up of a handmade silver ring worn on a finger after a silver-making workshop in Ubud, Bali." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OhW3!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5503f102-2f00-46b1-8bc9-d32a6dc88516_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OhW3!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5503f102-2f00-46b1-8bc9-d32a6dc88516_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OhW3!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5503f102-2f00-46b1-8bc9-d32a6dc88516_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OhW3!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5503f102-2f00-46b1-8bc9-d32a6dc88516_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">My first handmade silver ring, finished after hours of small repetitive manual work</figcaption></figure></div><p>Being inside something completely unfamiliar forces you to stay present. You can&#8217;t disappear into overthinking while trying to follow each movement, each tool, each step of the process. For a while, your attention stays entirely there, inside something you don&#8217;t know yet. There is simply no space left for the usual mental noise when reality requires your full attention.</p><blockquote><p><em>Sometimes attention comes naturally when the world in front of you is still unfamiliar.</em></p></blockquote><div class="image-gallery-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;gallery&quot;:{&quot;images&quot;:[{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/c556bfc3-8214-485c-8922-6f87648f8756_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/f40bfcf8-6fe3-4344-96d0-785969aab707_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/0aad2ca1-58bf-48ed-8589-d999073d46ae_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/3da81bcc-7d5a-4d16-a804-26f535971372_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/b39ebb94-291c-4776-beb1-01ff77b9703e_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/56d0ca4a-2f4a-48e3-af00-33f14b83632a_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/c5fe7a73-0430-4a09-809f-ea0798386070_800x600.jpeg&quot;}],&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;staticGalleryImage&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/png&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/4d1ba631-3f35-4798-b955-7ff172895bb3_1456x1946.png&quot;}},&quot;isEditorNode&quot;:true}"></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Travel as a Way Back to Yourself]]></title><description><![CDATA[A simpler, more practical approach to finding your voice and direction through intentional DIY travel]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/travel-as-a-way-back-to-yourself</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/travel-as-a-way-back-to-yourself</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 22 May 2026 06:29:11 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/89ad7449-fb5b-4f1b-8af4-db0c548ea000_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>There was a period in my life when I constantly felt confused about what I wanted, where I was going, and what was actually right for me. Not because I didn&#8217;t think deeply enough. If anything, I was overthinking everything.</p><p>Like many women I speak to today, I had already done a lot of inner work. I could understand my patterns, reflect on my past, and explain why I felt stuck. But understanding something and actually changing something in your life are two very different things.</p><p>What slowly changed things for me wasn&#8217;t another breakthrough or another realization. It was a combination of movement, being present, pleasure, and small, new practices. More specifically, placing myself in different environments and learning to make small choices for myself in real life.</p><p>Travel became that space for me.</p><p>Not as escape, and not because travel magically solves your life, but because something shifts when you step outside your usual environment. You start noticing what you enjoy, what feels right, what pulls you naturally, and how often you ignore your own voice in everyday life.</p><p>Over time, those small choices started changing much bigger things: how I made decisions, how I related to myself, and the direction my life was taking.</p><p>This guide is a very simple introduction to that process.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h8yp!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbe9e9a43-693d-4889-9e88-2707d82f362a_501x545.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h8yp!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbe9e9a43-693d-4889-9e88-2707d82f362a_501x545.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h8yp!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbe9e9a43-693d-4889-9e88-2707d82f362a_501x545.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h8yp!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbe9e9a43-693d-4889-9e88-2707d82f362a_501x545.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h8yp!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbe9e9a43-693d-4889-9e88-2707d82f362a_501x545.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h8yp!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbe9e9a43-693d-4889-9e88-2707d82f362a_501x545.jpeg" width="501" height="545" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/be9e9a43-693d-4889-9e88-2707d82f362a_501x545.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:545,&quot;width&quot;:501,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:75946,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Mockup of the &#8220;A Different Way to Go From Feeling Lost to Finding Your Voice and Direction&#8221; intentional travel guide displayed on a tablet and phone.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/198731556?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc0856c65-353b-480e-96de-15657c373c71_501x800.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Mockup of the &#8220;A Different Way to Go From Feeling Lost to Finding Your Voice and Direction&#8221; intentional travel guide displayed on a tablet and phone." title="Mockup of the &#8220;A Different Way to Go From Feeling Lost to Finding Your Voice and Direction&#8221; intentional travel guide displayed on a tablet and phone." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h8yp!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbe9e9a43-693d-4889-9e88-2707d82f362a_501x545.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h8yp!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbe9e9a43-693d-4889-9e88-2707d82f362a_501x545.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h8yp!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbe9e9a43-693d-4889-9e88-2707d82f362a_501x545.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h8yp!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbe9e9a43-693d-4889-9e88-2707d82f362a_501x545.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Inside, I&#8217;ll walk you through a half-day intentional travel experience you can do in your own hometown. You don&#8217;t need a plane ticket, confidence, or a perfect plan. You just need a few hours, a different environment, and the willingness to observe yourself a little differently.</p><p>The goal is not to &#8220;fix your life&#8221; in one afternoon. The goal is simply to interrupt the loop long enough to hear yourself again.</p><p class="button-wrapper" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.systeme.io/a-half-day-trip-in-your-hometown&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Start the Half-Day Experience&quot;,&quot;action&quot;:null,&quot;class&quot;:null}" data-component-name="ButtonCreateButton"><a class="button primary" href="https://authentictravels.systeme.io/a-half-day-trip-in-your-hometown"><span>Start the Half-Day Experience</span></a></p><p>P.S. I also write <em><a href="https://authentictravels.substack.com/t/letters-on-the-road">Letters on the Road</a></em>, a long-term writing practice about travel, change, and the small choices that quietly shape who we become.</p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[When a Place Becomes New Again]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 40 - A visit like the first time at Puri Lukisan Museum in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/when-a-place-becomes-new-again</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/when-a-place-becomes-new-again</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 20 May 2026 11:39:47 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gh2t!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Two small stone guardians stand at the entrance of the garden at Puri Lukisan Museum in Ubud. Their bodies are frozen in stone, yet their gestures still feel animated, as if movement never fully left them. The monsoon season is almost over, and the afternoons are sunnier now. The quiet sound of water from the pond softens the movement of people passing through the garden. Even surrounded by the Balinese colorful paintings and carved details of the wooden panels, my attention keeps returning to these small guardians near the entrance, as if they are silently welcoming people into the space.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!AlbN!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F61cb8725-0afe-49ab-bd5b-5f5f8c292b5b_600x800.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!AlbN!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F61cb8725-0afe-49ab-bd5b-5f5f8c292b5b_600x800.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!AlbN!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F61cb8725-0afe-49ab-bd5b-5f5f8c292b5b_600x800.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!AlbN!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F61cb8725-0afe-49ab-bd5b-5f5f8c292b5b_600x800.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!AlbN!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F61cb8725-0afe-49ab-bd5b-5f5f8c292b5b_600x800.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!AlbN!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F61cb8725-0afe-49ab-bd5b-5f5f8c292b5b_600x800.jpeg" width="600" height="800" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/61cb8725-0afe-49ab-bd5b-5f5f8c292b5b_600x800.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:800,&quot;width&quot;:600,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:139423,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Balinese stone guardian statues dressed in ceremonial fabric at the entrance of Puri Lukisan Museum in Ubud, Bali, under strong tropical sunlight.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/198138029?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F61cb8725-0afe-49ab-bd5b-5f5f8c292b5b_600x800.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Balinese stone guardian statues dressed in ceremonial fabric at the entrance of Puri Lukisan Museum in Ubud, Bali, under strong tropical sunlight." title="Balinese stone guardian statues dressed in ceremonial fabric at the entrance of Puri Lukisan Museum in Ubud, Bali, under strong tropical sunlight." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!AlbN!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F61cb8725-0afe-49ab-bd5b-5f5f8c292b5b_600x800.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!AlbN!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F61cb8725-0afe-49ab-bd5b-5f5f8c292b5b_600x800.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!AlbN!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F61cb8725-0afe-49ab-bd5b-5f5f8c292b5b_600x800.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!AlbN!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F61cb8725-0afe-49ab-bd5b-5f5f8c292b5b_600x800.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Stone guardians at the entrance of Puri Lukisan Museum, Ubud</figcaption></figure></div><p>I was here two years ago, during another time in Bali. But there are too many statues to truly remember them all. I find myself looking at these small guardians with the curiosity of seeing them for the first time. Then, almost instinctively, I check the map again just to confirm this isn&#8217;t somehow a new place. It makes me smile a little because I realize how much I rely on orientation memory now after traveling alone for so long. When you move through places independently, your body starts remembering directions, turns, distances, and atmospheres differently than before.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!YUVF!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9c27964b-5cd7-4e28-a853-bf04b8c3f5f9_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!YUVF!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9c27964b-5cd7-4e28-a853-bf04b8c3f5f9_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!YUVF!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9c27964b-5cd7-4e28-a853-bf04b8c3f5f9_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!YUVF!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9c27964b-5cd7-4e28-a853-bf04b8c3f5f9_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!YUVF!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9c27964b-5cd7-4e28-a853-bf04b8c3f5f9_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!YUVF!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9c27964b-5cd7-4e28-a853-bf04b8c3f5f9_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/9c27964b-5cd7-4e28-a853-bf04b8c3f5f9_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:163875,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Woman standing beside a Balinese stone guardian statue inside Puri Lukisan Museum in Ubud, Bali.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/198138029?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9c27964b-5cd7-4e28-a853-bf04b8c3f5f9_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Woman standing beside a Balinese stone guardian statue inside Puri Lukisan Museum in Ubud, Bali." title="Woman standing beside a Balinese stone guardian statue inside Puri Lukisan Museum in Ubud, Bali." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!YUVF!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9c27964b-5cd7-4e28-a853-bf04b8c3f5f9_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!YUVF!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9c27964b-5cd7-4e28-a853-bf04b8c3f5f9_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!YUVF!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9c27964b-5cd7-4e28-a853-bf04b8c3f5f9_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!YUVF!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9c27964b-5cd7-4e28-a853-bf04b8c3f5f9_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Returning to familiar places never feels exactly the same</figcaption></figure></div><p>Travel changes the way memory lives in our minds and bodies. After years of navigating places alone, orientation no longer comes only from remembering streets or buildings. It becomes something quieter - a nervous-system familiarity with movement, direction, and presence itself. Sometimes I recognize the feeling of a place before I consciously recognize the place itself. The subconscious mind remembers rhythms, textures, intersections, and tiny sensory details that the conscious mind would normally forget. This is why returning somewhere never feels exactly the same, even when nothing externally has changed.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gh2t!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gh2t!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gh2t!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gh2t!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gh2t!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gh2t!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg" width="600" height="800" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:800,&quot;width&quot;:600,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:166197,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Moss-covered Balinese stone statue illuminated by strong tropical sunlight inside the garden area of Puri Lukisan Museum in Ubud.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/198138029?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Moss-covered Balinese stone statue illuminated by strong tropical sunlight inside the garden area of Puri Lukisan Museum in Ubud." title="Moss-covered Balinese stone statue illuminated by strong tropical sunlight inside the garden area of Puri Lukisan Museum in Ubud." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gh2t!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gh2t!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gh2t!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gh2t!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8cb3b70f-9109-4dd5-b959-85604a541cb1_600x800.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Some places stay in the body before they stay in memory</figcaption></figure></div><p>I forget this too easily sometimes: you don&#8217;t always need a completely new destination to experience what travel gives you. Often, returning is enough. A familiar place, revisited with attention, can interrupt autopilot just as powerfully as somewhere unknown. The environment catches your senses again, and suddenly you are pulled back into the here and now. Novelty is not always created by distance, but by attention in the here and now. The shift happens simply because you are present enough to notice what you ignored the first time.</p><blockquote><p><em>The nervous system notices what the mind thinks it already knows - and suddenly the place becomes new again.</em></p></blockquote><div class="image-gallery-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;gallery&quot;:{&quot;images&quot;:[{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/cd9c2509-345d-4c25-ac65-731c4f37487e_600x800.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/832803c2-6bb9-4f66-9149-214c2392072b_600x800.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/7ece3ffe-83a1-4237-8e95-f2b79acf2876_600x800.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/b1331ff0-a39f-4458-a708-425637e2a54a_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/8339d153-193d-4f33-9bef-2005a17e73de_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/ade26b33-9325-4d08-9bb1-17828627ec8d_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/cc837671-6b0f-4f66-a62c-afea833f8ae6_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/ed6e16b3-a402-46b5-ae42-1127c2dd23f3_600x800.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/d8cf7fea-97e6-47f2-82eb-53fea1f84274_600x800.jpeg&quot;}],&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;staticGalleryImage&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/png&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/1a2d5fc1-4919-4be5-8dd3-a53fdb78143f_1456x1454.png&quot;}},&quot;isEditorNode&quot;:true}"></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Returning to What Nourishes You]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 39 - Quiet mornings by the pool in Sayan, near Ubud - Bali, Indonesia]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/returning-to-what-nourishes-you</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/returning-to-what-nourishes-you</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 15 May 2026 19:24:15 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!a8xD!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Feb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am back in Sayan, near Ubud, in the same guest house where I stayed for the entire month of December last year. In the quiet morning, I can hear birds chirping in the trees while the sliding doors of my room stay open toward the courtyard. From my bed, I can see the small swimming pool outside, the kitchen where I can finally cook my own breakfast again, and the terrace where I&#8217;ll do yoga when the sun moves on the other side.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!a8xD!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Feb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!a8xD!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Feb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!a8xD!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Feb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!a8xD!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Feb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!a8xD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Feb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!a8xD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Feb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/eb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:132203,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Guest house with an open terrace and private swimming pool in Sayan, Ubud, Bali under a bright tropical sky.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/197900834?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Feb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Guest house with an open terrace and private swimming pool in Sayan, Ubud, Bali under a bright tropical sky." title="Guest house with an open terrace and private swimming pool in Sayan, Ubud, Bali under a bright tropical sky." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!a8xD!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Feb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!a8xD!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Feb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!a8xD!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Feb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!a8xD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Feb8209a3-17ca-440e-98f2-8736ec0ce985_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">A small courtyard, an open room, a quiet pool, and enough simplicity to return to myself again</figcaption></figure></div><p>When I arrived, I stood in the doorway looking at the swimming pool for a few silent seconds &#8230; I was back in the exact same place. I remember how good I felt living here before: swimming every day, sitting outside in the sun, moving through a rhythm that has become calm and natural. During the last two months of traveling, I&#8217;ve been missing having a place to just sit and relax, and a kitchen to cook my own healthy meals. Boiling rice, making an omelet, and seeing the pool outside immediately gives me a feeling of home again.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dTcm!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd747ebbd-9eab-4574-8e67-419fc338a6ed_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dTcm!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd747ebbd-9eab-4574-8e67-419fc338a6ed_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dTcm!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd747ebbd-9eab-4574-8e67-419fc338a6ed_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dTcm!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd747ebbd-9eab-4574-8e67-419fc338a6ed_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dTcm!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd747ebbd-9eab-4574-8e67-419fc338a6ed_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dTcm!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd747ebbd-9eab-4574-8e67-419fc338a6ed_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/d747ebbd-9eab-4574-8e67-419fc338a6ed_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:134910,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Homemade healthy meal with soup, vegetables, and rice prepared in a guest house kitchen in Bali.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/197900834?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd747ebbd-9eab-4574-8e67-419fc338a6ed_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Homemade healthy meal with soup, vegetables, and rice prepared in a guest house kitchen in Bali." title="Homemade healthy meal with soup, vegetables, and rice prepared in a guest house kitchen in Bali." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dTcm!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd747ebbd-9eab-4574-8e67-419fc338a6ed_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dTcm!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd747ebbd-9eab-4574-8e67-419fc338a6ed_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dTcm!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd747ebbd-9eab-4574-8e67-419fc338a6ed_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!dTcm!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd747ebbd-9eab-4574-8e67-419fc338a6ed_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">After two months of traveling, cooking my own simple meals again feels like a form of grounding.</figcaption></figure></div><p>Last year, staying here for a month quietly changed something in me. One of my biggest pleasures in life has always been having access to water, sun, and enough slowness to actually enjoy them. This place gives me permission to stop treating those things as unrealistic luxuries. Coming back here makes me realize that when something genuinely aligns with who we are and what we truly need, we don&#8217;t always feel the urge to keep searching for something else. Sometimes, returning is not going backwards at all. Sometimes it is simply recognizing where we feel most like ourselves.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5deb!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6aa1d81a-ffd8-43a4-999e-97be271f7df5_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5deb!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6aa1d81a-ffd8-43a4-999e-97be271f7df5_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5deb!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6aa1d81a-ffd8-43a4-999e-97be271f7df5_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5deb!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6aa1d81a-ffd8-43a4-999e-97be271f7df5_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5deb!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6aa1d81a-ffd8-43a4-999e-97be271f7df5_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5deb!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6aa1d81a-ffd8-43a4-999e-97be271f7df5_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/6aa1d81a-ffd8-43a4-999e-97be271f7df5_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:91450,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Simple kitchen inside a Bali guest house with cooking utensils, sink, and ingredients for homemade meals.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/197900834?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6aa1d81a-ffd8-43a4-999e-97be271f7df5_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Simple kitchen inside a Bali guest house with cooking utensils, sink, and ingredients for homemade meals." title="Simple kitchen inside a Bali guest house with cooking utensils, sink, and ingredients for homemade meals." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5deb!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6aa1d81a-ffd8-43a4-999e-97be271f7df5_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5deb!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6aa1d81a-ffd8-43a4-999e-97be271f7df5_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5deb!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6aa1d81a-ffd8-43a4-999e-97be271f7df5_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5deb!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6aa1d81a-ffd8-43a4-999e-97be271f7df5_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">A small kitchen, healthy food, and familiar routines &#8212; sometimes comfort changes us more than novelty</figcaption></figure></div><p>There is a strange kind of emotional autonomy in allowing yourself to return to what already nourishes you instead of constantly looking for something new. Travel changes us because new environments interrupt old patterns. But sometimes growth also means recognizing the places, rhythms, and choices that support who we are, and consciously choosing them again.</p><blockquote><p><em>Maybe alignment is also allowing yourself to return to what already nourishes you, and recognizing where you feel most like yourself.</em></p></blockquote><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[THE RHYTHM OF DAILY WORK]]></title><description><![CDATA[Field Recordings: Morning activity at the fish market in Mal&#233;, where boats, labor, and repetition quietly reveal the everyday rhythm of the Maldives (February 2026)]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-rhythm-of-daily-work</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-rhythm-of-daily-work</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 09 May 2026 09:00:18 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://api.substack.com/feed/podcast/196989314/ea2b869adbfaa0f00341f118fdb8c447.mp3" length="0" type="audio/mpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A few quiet moments at the fish market in Mal&#233; during Ramadan: boats keep arriving at the port while men clean and prepare freshly caught fish in a rhythm that feels continuous, practical, and deeply tied to daily life on the islands.</p><blockquote><p><em>In places built around water and movement, repetition becomes part of the atmosphere itself.</em></p></blockquote><p class="button-wrapper" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe now&quot;,&quot;action&quot;:null,&quot;class&quot;:null}" data-component-name="ButtonCreateButton"><a class="button primary" href="https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?"><span>Subscribe now</span></a></p><p></p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Between Suspended Ferries and Closed Windows in Ramadan]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 38 - Learning to adapt between islands, prayer times, and movement in Mal&#233; and its surrounding islands, Maldives]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/between-suspended-ferries-and-closed-windows-in-ramadan</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/between-suspended-ferries-and-closed-windows-in-ramadan</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 08 May 2026 09:17:21 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5PSd!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Despite being a small island, Mal&#233; - the capital of the Maldives, feels like carrying the weight of a whole country. Barely one kilometer long, it&#8217;s dense, animated, and always moving - especially around the port, where boats from different islands arrive for products, supplies, and travel farther across the atolls. The market has the same rhythm: vibrant, full, practical, alive. Motorbikes fill almost every corner of Mal&#233;, becoming the fastest and most practical way to move through the island&#8217;s compressed space. From here, everything seems to spread outward, like a center that sends energy, people, goods, and direction toward the nearby islands and the more distant atolls. </p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5PSd!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5PSd!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5PSd!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5PSd!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5PSd!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5PSd!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:134342,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Workers unloading supplies and water bottles from a boat in the busy port area of Mal&#233;, Maldives.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/196868080?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Workers unloading supplies and water bottles from a boat in the busy port area of Mal&#233;, Maldives." title="Workers unloading supplies and water bottles from a boat in the busy port area of Mal&#233;, Maldives." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5PSd!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5PSd!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5PSd!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5PSd!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3565c83a-95ab-40a7-96b1-66b2cfa02ae4_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Daily movement through the port of Mal&#233; during Ramadan</figcaption></figure></div><p>Just 10 minutes by ferry from Mal&#233;, Vilimal&#233; feels quieter and is exclusively residential, close to the new road being built over the water towards the nearby industrial islands. Hulhumal&#233; feels different again: calmer, more modern, closer to the airport, with beaches and a rhythm that almost touches the Western world. The three islands create completely different rhythms inside the same destination: Mal&#233; feels compressed and constantly moving, while Vilimal&#233; slows everything down, and Hulhumal&#233; almost feels like another world entirely. Moving between them every day feels like moving between different emotional and energetic tempos without ever leaving the same place.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!PEcu!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa9a96936-a250-43f1-af6f-b5c0ff2de899_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!PEcu!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa9a96936-a250-43f1-af6f-b5c0ff2de899_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!PEcu!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa9a96936-a250-43f1-af6f-b5c0ff2de899_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!PEcu!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa9a96936-a250-43f1-af6f-b5c0ff2de899_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!PEcu!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa9a96936-a250-43f1-af6f-b5c0ff2de899_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!PEcu!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa9a96936-a250-43f1-af6f-b5c0ff2de899_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/a9a96936-a250-43f1-af6f-b5c0ff2de899_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:147740,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Men cleaning and preparing freshly caught fish at the local fish market in Mal&#233;, Maldives.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/196868080?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa9a96936-a250-43f1-af6f-b5c0ff2de899_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Men cleaning and preparing freshly caught fish at the local fish market in Mal&#233;, Maldives." title="Men cleaning and preparing freshly caught fish at the local fish market in Mal&#233;, Maldives." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!PEcu!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa9a96936-a250-43f1-af6f-b5c0ff2de899_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!PEcu!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa9a96936-a250-43f1-af6f-b5c0ff2de899_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!PEcu!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa9a96936-a250-43f1-af6f-b5c0ff2de899_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!PEcu!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa9a96936-a250-43f1-af6f-b5c0ff2de899_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Morning work at the fish market in Mal&#233;</figcaption></figure></div><p>During these days, I move within a relatively small perimeter, between these islands and their completely different vibes. I meet two couchsurfers - Ashraf and Bishnu, and through them I see more of daily life here than I could have seen only by walking through the streets. Ramadan also changes everything again. I find a restaurant open for lunch only after asking, searching, watching carefully, and noticing what is hidden behind curtains and closed windows. Even local people do not really know where I can eat during the day, because they are fasting and they don&#8217;t need that information. Transport also changes around prayer time: ferries and buses stop, and I have to adjust quickly, find another way, use the bridge, look for taxis, discover apps, and solve things when I get stranded on Hulhumal&#233;.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Qtln!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5f31d6b2-37de-4b9d-bbdb-23a5c0d1ad7f_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Qtln!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5f31d6b2-37de-4b9d-bbdb-23a5c0d1ad7f_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Qtln!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5f31d6b2-37de-4b9d-bbdb-23a5c0d1ad7f_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Qtln!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5f31d6b2-37de-4b9d-bbdb-23a5c0d1ad7f_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Qtln!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5f31d6b2-37de-4b9d-bbdb-23a5c0d1ad7f_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Qtln!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5f31d6b2-37de-4b9d-bbdb-23a5c0d1ad7f_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/5f31d6b2-37de-4b9d-bbdb-23a5c0d1ad7f_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:101807,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;A lunch meal served inside a restaurant open during daytime Ramadan hours in Mal&#233;, Maldives.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/196868080?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5f31d6b2-37de-4b9d-bbdb-23a5c0d1ad7f_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="A lunch meal served inside a restaurant open during daytime Ramadan hours in Mal&#233;, Maldives." title="A lunch meal served inside a restaurant open during daytime Ramadan hours in Mal&#233;, Maldives." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Qtln!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5f31d6b2-37de-4b9d-bbdb-23a5c0d1ad7f_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Qtln!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5f31d6b2-37de-4b9d-bbdb-23a5c0d1ad7f_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Qtln!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5f31d6b2-37de-4b9d-bbdb-23a5c0d1ad7f_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Qtln!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5f31d6b2-37de-4b9d-bbdb-23a5c0d1ad7f_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Finding an open restaurant for lunch during Ramadan feels like a small victory</figcaption></figure></div><p>Do-it-yourself travel keeps confirming the same thing for me again and again: you have to find your own way, both in travel and in life. If you travel with an agency, someone probably takes you directly to the open restaurant, tells you where to go, arranges the transport, and makes everything smooth and comfortable. But when you travel independently, you have to sharpen your senses. You have to ask, observe, compare, decide, and sometimes try again. When I finally find that restaurant open for lunch during Ramadan, I feel almost victorious, as if I have discovered America. It is a small thing, but inside it feels big, because I have found the way myself.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9QWY!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fcb3ad480-6489-417c-95ad-63c0c4f7babb_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9QWY!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fcb3ad480-6489-417c-95ad-63c0c4f7babb_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9QWY!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fcb3ad480-6489-417c-95ad-63c0c4f7babb_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9QWY!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fcb3ad480-6489-417c-95ad-63c0c4f7babb_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9QWY!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fcb3ad480-6489-417c-95ad-63c0c4f7babb_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9QWY!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fcb3ad480-6489-417c-95ad-63c0c4f7babb_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/cb3ad480-6489-417c-95ad-63c0c4f7babb_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:203082,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;A woman sitting near the ocean under a tree on a quiet island in the Maldives.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/196868080?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fcb3ad480-6489-417c-95ad-63c0c4f7babb_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="A woman sitting near the ocean under a tree on a quiet island in the Maldives." title="A woman sitting near the ocean under a tree on a quiet island in the Maldives." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9QWY!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fcb3ad480-6489-417c-95ad-63c0c4f7babb_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9QWY!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fcb3ad480-6489-417c-95ad-63c0c4f7babb_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9QWY!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fcb3ad480-6489-417c-95ad-63c0c4f7babb_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9QWY!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fcb3ad480-6489-417c-95ad-63c0c4f7babb_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Some places quietly sharpen your senses and your trust in yourself</figcaption></figure></div><p>Challenges come more often in do-it-yourself travel because reality is not prepared in advance for you. They accelerate change in your life because they put you in front of many different situations where you have to adapt, change, listen to yourself, and choose what works best for you. At home, many things are familiar and automatic. On the road, especially in a place like Mal&#233;, the system keeps changing around you. You cannot stay passive. You have to participate, and this participation slowly strengthens trust in your own inner direction.</p><blockquote><p><em>The small victories of do-it-yourself travel reinforce the quiet confidence that you can always find your way around.</em></p></blockquote><div class="image-gallery-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;gallery&quot;:{&quot;images&quot;:[{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/c1c2bdef-2871-4ca3-b158-4aa2c9fe994e_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/cb8d707c-41bb-4835-9338-4aef13b3e1fd_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/5ef4b64e-f0b4-4875-bc25-0e2eb5e46491_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/5a4d87f8-a56f-42b7-b2e6-467c80df3c7a_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/b17c20d4-2aad-473c-ac6d-c56fe9a54fd3_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/886ce795-5a83-4ce4-a5fe-0857aae48350_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/d75c0c84-4807-40e5-9b4b-8225b6fc8085_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/f037098d-0137-4845-80b0-6719084de631_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/e9ba66c7-c45a-4b1a-ab93-6ebbfef697f8_800x600.jpeg&quot;}],&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;staticGalleryImage&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/png&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/160ce90e-89c1-4e3f-816a-c102c708eaa4_1456x1454.png&quot;}},&quot;isEditorNode&quot;:true}"></div><p></p><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div><p></p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[THE SAME MOVEMENT, EVERY DAY]]></title><description><![CDATA[Field Recordings: Manta rays circling daily near the port of Dharavandhoo, where repetition and still observation reveal a different rhythm of movement and presence, Maldives (Ramadan, February 2026)]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-same-movement-every-day</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-same-movement-every-day</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 01 May 2026 08:07:52 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://api.substack.com/feed/podcast/196088649/92e0b3a93c8f87c19bb70cf4f7de9a85.mp3" length="0" type="audio/mpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A few quiet moments by the port in Dharavandhoo &#8212; manta rays circle in the shallow water, returning again and again near the pier, while people gather along the edge, waiting for the same rhythm to unfold.</p><blockquote><p><em>Sometimes, seeing the same unusual thing again and again changes how you relate to it; what felt rare begins to feel normal.</em></p></blockquote><p class="button-wrapper" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe now&quot;,&quot;action&quot;:null,&quot;class&quot;:null}" data-component-name="ButtonCreateButton"><a class="button primary" href="https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?"><span>Subscribe now</span></a></p><p></p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[The Island that Makes Paradise Inevitable]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 37 - Everything slows down on Dharavandhoo Island, Baa Atoll, Maldives]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-island-that-makes-paradise-inevitable</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/the-island-that-makes-paradise-inevitable</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 29 Apr 2026 18:21:16 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!rCEE!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dharavandhoo sits among the Maldives, an archipelago made of over a thousand islands scattered across the Indian Ocean in 26 atolls. Once you land here, everything contracts. The scale drops immediately: a small airport, one plane at a time, a few people waiting, then silence again. Rows of small houses line sandy roads, with long stretches where nothing happens. The island moves slowly, almost paused. Midday heat empties the streets, especially during Ramadan. Everything feels reduced, contained, as if the island has quietly folded into itself.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NCUj!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26c202cb-3844-4e1d-9c3e-6f27b139d7b7_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NCUj!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26c202cb-3844-4e1d-9c3e-6f27b139d7b7_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NCUj!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26c202cb-3844-4e1d-9c3e-6f27b139d7b7_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NCUj!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26c202cb-3844-4e1d-9c3e-6f27b139d7b7_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NCUj!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26c202cb-3844-4e1d-9c3e-6f27b139d7b7_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NCUj!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26c202cb-3844-4e1d-9c3e-6f27b139d7b7_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/26c202cb-3844-4e1d-9c3e-6f27b139d7b7_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:133591,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Sign reading Dharavandhoo on a white sandy beach with palm trees and turquoise ocean&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/195888792?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26c202cb-3844-4e1d-9c3e-6f27b139d7b7_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Sign reading Dharavandhoo on a white sandy beach with palm trees and turquoise ocean" title="Sign reading Dharavandhoo on a white sandy beach with palm trees and turquoise ocean" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NCUj!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26c202cb-3844-4e1d-9c3e-6f27b139d7b7_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NCUj!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26c202cb-3844-4e1d-9c3e-6f27b139d7b7_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NCUj!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26c202cb-3844-4e1d-9c3e-6f27b139d7b7_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NCUj!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26c202cb-3844-4e1d-9c3e-6f27b139d7b7_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Dharavandhoo: small enough to understand in one arrival</figcaption></figure></div><p>The bikini beach for tourists stands on the edge of the Dharavandhoo. In between, there are a few shops, a couple of pharmacies, and a handful of places where you can eat. Out by the port, boats come and go on a rhythm that isn&#8217;t clearly announced, but somehow works. And in the water nearby, small manta rays and sharks circle throughout the day, as if they already know the exact hour when food will appear at the fish market.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9kDk!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F238b5c23-ddcf-4f0c-ab3c-53d8df0a69b5_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9kDk!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F238b5c23-ddcf-4f0c-ab3c-53d8df0a69b5_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9kDk!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F238b5c23-ddcf-4f0c-ab3c-53d8df0a69b5_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9kDk!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F238b5c23-ddcf-4f0c-ab3c-53d8df0a69b5_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9kDk!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F238b5c23-ddcf-4f0c-ab3c-53d8df0a69b5_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9kDk!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F238b5c23-ddcf-4f0c-ab3c-53d8df0a69b5_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/238b5c23-ddcf-4f0c-ab3c-53d8df0a69b5_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:136027,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Quiet sandy street on a small island with a blue scooter and small shop&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/195888792?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F238b5c23-ddcf-4f0c-ab3c-53d8df0a69b5_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Quiet sandy street on a small island with a blue scooter and small shop" title="Quiet sandy street on a small island with a blue scooter and small shop" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9kDk!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F238b5c23-ddcf-4f0c-ab3c-53d8df0a69b5_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9kDk!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F238b5c23-ddcf-4f0c-ab3c-53d8df0a69b5_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9kDk!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F238b5c23-ddcf-4f0c-ab3c-53d8df0a69b5_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9kDk!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F238b5c23-ddcf-4f0c-ab3c-53d8df0a69b5_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">A few streets, a few places, and long pauses in between</figcaption></figure></div><p>I arrive at the guesthouse in the airport staff&#8217;s car, then everything shifts to walking. There are no cars moving around, no transport to figure out - just a small buggy that occasionally takes people to the airport. The rest of the time, I move on foot, back and forth on the same sandy streets - between the beach, the port, and the few places that serve food during the day in Ramadan. I ask a few questions when I arrive, and that&#8217;s enough to understand the whole island. Afterwards, there&#8217;s nothing more to figure out, only to repeat.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8UMM!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F067d0faa-93ee-4fd0-9763-5985fe144a16_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8UMM!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F067d0faa-93ee-4fd0-9763-5985fe144a16_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8UMM!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F067d0faa-93ee-4fd0-9763-5985fe144a16_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8UMM!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F067d0faa-93ee-4fd0-9763-5985fe144a16_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8UMM!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F067d0faa-93ee-4fd0-9763-5985fe144a16_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8UMM!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F067d0faa-93ee-4fd0-9763-5985fe144a16_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/067d0faa-93ee-4fd0-9763-5985fe144a16_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:166944,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Tropical beach with palm trees and turquoise water under a bright sky&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/195888792?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F067d0faa-93ee-4fd0-9763-5985fe144a16_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Tropical beach with palm trees and turquoise water under a bright sky" title="Tropical beach with palm trees and turquoise water under a bright sky" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8UMM!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F067d0faa-93ee-4fd0-9763-5985fe144a16_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8UMM!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F067d0faa-93ee-4fd0-9763-5985fe144a16_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8UMM!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F067d0faa-93ee-4fd0-9763-5985fe144a16_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8UMM!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F067d0faa-93ee-4fd0-9763-5985fe144a16_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">The same view near the house, again and again, until it becomes enough</figcaption></figure></div><p>The days become simple, almost reduced. One morning I catch a random boat to paradise-like Maalos island; another day I go snorkeling and come back exhausted from swimming among turtles and tropical fish. In between, I return to the same fishermen&#8217;s eatery by the waterfront, eat quietly for lunch, walk again, stop at the beach, then head to the port in the evening to watch the manta rays and sharks near the pier. The rhythm doesn&#8217;t build. It settles. And without planning it, I adjust to doing less, moving slower, staying longer in the same loop of small joys.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!rCEE!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!rCEE!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!rCEE!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!rCEE!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!rCEE!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!rCEE!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:181473,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Tropical beach with leaning palm trees and clear turquoise water&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/195888792?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Tropical beach with leaning palm trees and clear turquoise water" title="Tropical beach with leaning palm trees and clear turquoise water" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!rCEE!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!rCEE!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!rCEE!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!rCEE!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F35d8b56b-fc55-4a55-b048-b9fc4c420f72_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">A brief escape on Maalos island that doesn&#8217;t change the rhythm</figcaption></figure></div><p>Living in Dharavandhoo, I realize I&#8217;m being given the chance to stay with simple pleasure in these almost unreal places, without needing to turn it into something else. There is not much to do here, and maybe that is exactly the point: I look at the turquoise water for longer than necessary, swing above the sea, collect shells and leave them in the guesthouse yard, as if the day only asks me to receive what is already in front of me. Simple enjoyment is not a reward after effort here; it is the whole practice. It has time to enter slowly - through the eyes, the skin, the bones - until doing less no longer feels like missing out.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tedM!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc167aaf5-cbaf-4dca-bd94-272329456732_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tedM!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc167aaf5-cbaf-4dca-bd94-272329456732_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tedM!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc167aaf5-cbaf-4dca-bd94-272329456732_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tedM!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc167aaf5-cbaf-4dca-bd94-272329456732_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tedM!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc167aaf5-cbaf-4dca-bd94-272329456732_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tedM!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc167aaf5-cbaf-4dca-bd94-272329456732_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/c167aaf5-cbaf-4dca-bd94-272329456732_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:159028,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Manta rays swimming in clear shallow water near the shore&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/195888792?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc167aaf5-cbaf-4dca-bd94-272329456732_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Manta rays swimming in clear shallow water near the shore" title="Manta rays swimming in clear shallow water near the shore" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tedM!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc167aaf5-cbaf-4dca-bd94-272329456732_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tedM!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc167aaf5-cbaf-4dca-bd94-272329456732_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tedM!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc167aaf5-cbaf-4dca-bd94-272329456732_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tedM!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc167aaf5-cbaf-4dca-bd94-272329456732_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">What returns, again and again, until it becomes enough</figcaption></figure></div><p>When pressure to do certain things disappears, pleasure becomes something that can be stayed with, not just briefly touched. Repeating simple moments that feel good - without turning them into goals or outcomes - allows them to settle deeper, beyond surface experience. Over time, this quiet repetition reshapes what feels normal, not through effort, but through exposure to what already feels right.</p><blockquote><p><em>When nothing interrupts it, staying long enough is where pleasure deepens.</em></p></blockquote><div class="image-gallery-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;gallery&quot;:{&quot;images&quot;:[{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/f0e2e583-2fc8-4f0b-a90d-3ceda96f05c4_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/67eefb30-0d4b-4222-a4ff-f18400ab296f_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/57cf45df-6be1-4fc1-afd1-b5e16d354c6b_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/3d03cfc9-c002-4dff-8729-a46f80d357fc_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/878ec26d-0830-4fce-a14b-9280a7976720_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/152395c3-e959-44a4-9a54-28f6ad8f37a1_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/9acf6dd6-4e7e-4566-997c-c20d9dd65c76_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/19158137-96dd-4237-91ac-8e69af98fe67_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/615ed5ad-406b-4094-935c-727955a58066_800x600.jpeg&quot;}],&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;staticGalleryImage&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/png&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/0a60f98f-198c-4fd0-bd1e-797f4652655b_1456x1454.png&quot;}},&quot;isEditorNode&quot;:true}"></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div><p></p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[When the Place Follows Other Rules]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 36 - Somewhere between stillness and hunger in Ramadan, Addu Atoll, Southern Maldives]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/when-the-place-follows-other-rules</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/when-the-place-follows-other-rules</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sun, 26 Apr 2026 06:17:09 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gMz9!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In the southern part of the Maldives, Addu is the largest atoll in the country. Three of its main islands (Gan, Feydhoo, and Maradhoo) are connected by a 15-kilometer causeway, forming the closest thing to an urban structure in the Maldives, while Hithadhoo remains slightly apart - more distant, quieter, almost held in its own rhythm. The pace in the atoll is slow, suspended in time far away from everything. There is a deep stillness during the day: no visible movement, no urgency, no social noise. </p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9Kcy!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F59131561-71c8-4f0c-951a-df68de600e53_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9Kcy!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F59131561-71c8-4f0c-951a-df68de600e53_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9Kcy!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F59131561-71c8-4f0c-951a-df68de600e53_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9Kcy!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F59131561-71c8-4f0c-951a-df68de600e53_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9Kcy!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F59131561-71c8-4f0c-951a-df68de600e53_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9Kcy!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F59131561-71c8-4f0c-951a-df68de600e53_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/59131561-71c8-4f0c-951a-df68de600e53_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:169948,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Quiet residential street in Feydhoo Island with palm trees, houses, and no people during daytime.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/194938811?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F59131561-71c8-4f0c-951a-df68de600e53_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Quiet residential street in Feydhoo Island with palm trees, houses, and no people during daytime." title="Quiet residential street in Feydhoo Island with palm trees, houses, and no people during daytime." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9Kcy!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F59131561-71c8-4f0c-951a-df68de600e53_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9Kcy!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F59131561-71c8-4f0c-951a-df68de600e53_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9Kcy!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F59131561-71c8-4f0c-951a-df68de600e53_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9Kcy!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F59131561-71c8-4f0c-951a-df68de600e53_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Empty streets and suspended rhythm in Feydhoo Island</figcaption></figure></div><p>When Ramadan starts, the streets are nearly empty during the day. A few small shops remain open, just enough to find something to eat, but without changing the overall sense of suspension. The space feels stripped of activity: quiet in a way that almost resembles a place after impact, or a pause after something has already happened. Only the ocean continues, steady, rhythmic, indifferent to everything else. Caf&#233;s and restaurants remain closed until the fast breaks in the evening and the entire atoll shifts. Life returns all at once - with voices, light, movement, revealing a completely different layer of the same place.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ZGtd!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2918c413-d4ba-4d04-a5aa-3b49b3cef531_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ZGtd!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2918c413-d4ba-4d04-a5aa-3b49b3cef531_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ZGtd!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2918c413-d4ba-4d04-a5aa-3b49b3cef531_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ZGtd!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2918c413-d4ba-4d04-a5aa-3b49b3cef531_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ZGtd!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2918c413-d4ba-4d04-a5aa-3b49b3cef531_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ZGtd!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2918c413-d4ba-4d04-a5aa-3b49b3cef531_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/2918c413-d4ba-4d04-a5aa-3b49b3cef531_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:167687,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Low tide beach with shallow water and a few distant people standing in the sea under a quiet sky.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/194938811?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2918c413-d4ba-4d04-a5aa-3b49b3cef531_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Low tide beach with shallow water and a few distant people standing in the sea under a quiet sky." title="Low tide beach with shallow water and a few distant people standing in the sea under a quiet sky." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ZGtd!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2918c413-d4ba-4d04-a5aa-3b49b3cef531_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ZGtd!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2918c413-d4ba-4d04-a5aa-3b49b3cef531_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ZGtd!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2918c413-d4ba-4d04-a5aa-3b49b3cef531_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ZGtd!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2918c413-d4ba-4d04-a5aa-3b49b3cef531_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Daytime silence: only the ocean keeps moving</figcaption></figure></div><p>Moving through this stillness is not easy. I didn&#8217;t plan for Ramadan when I chose the Maldives, and that changed everything. Getting around between the islands feels challenging and fragmented, as local buses are irregular, and distances stretch more than they seem on the map. At times, my host takes me on his motorcycle from one place to another, filling the gaps that public transport cannot cover. I even rent a bicycle, but it quickly becomes impractical on the uneven roads, the heat, and the lack of proper food making even short distances feel heavy. Nothing moves with ease.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tTDD!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e7e698f-df74-41f3-9cb7-87f370796c46_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tTDD!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e7e698f-df74-41f3-9cb7-87f370796c46_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tTDD!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e7e698f-df74-41f3-9cb7-87f370796c46_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tTDD!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e7e698f-df74-41f3-9cb7-87f370796c46_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tTDD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e7e698f-df74-41f3-9cb7-87f370796c46_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tTDD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e7e698f-df74-41f3-9cb7-87f370796c46_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/1e7e698f-df74-41f3-9cb7-87f370796c46_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:205369,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Narrow sandy path lined with palm trees and vegetation under strong sunlight in a tropical setting.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/194938811?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e7e698f-df74-41f3-9cb7-87f370796c46_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Narrow sandy path lined with palm trees and vegetation under strong sunlight in a tropical setting." title="Narrow sandy path lined with palm trees and vegetation under strong sunlight in a tropical setting." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tTDD!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e7e698f-df74-41f3-9cb7-87f370796c46_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tTDD!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e7e698f-df74-41f3-9cb7-87f370796c46_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tTDD!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e7e698f-df74-41f3-9cb7-87f370796c46_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tTDD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e7e698f-df74-41f3-9cb7-87f370796c46_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Moving through heat, distance, and uneven paths on Hithadhoo Island</figcaption></figure></div><p>Food becomes a daily challenge. With no food delivery apps, no restaurants open during the day, and no alternatives to rely on, I find myself eating very little, often not by choice. The lack of rhythm around meals slowly impacts my energy, my body, and my overall experience of the place. By the time evening comes, I stand in front of restaurant doors, asking to be served as soon as they open. After hours of moving through heat and emptiness, hunger becomes physical, immediate, impossible to ignore. Eventually, the only workable solution is to order more food in the evening, and carry it with me through the following day - eating quietly, out of sight, so as not to interfere with the rhythm and traditions of the place.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gMz9!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gMz9!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gMz9!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gMz9!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gMz9!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gMz9!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/bc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:181974,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Small local shop on a quiet street on Hithadhoo Island, with no activity during daytime.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/194938811?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Small local shop on a quiet street on Hithadhoo Island, with no activity during daytime." title="Small local shop on a quiet street on Hithadhoo Island, with no activity during daytime." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gMz9!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gMz9!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gMz9!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gMz9!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc694d4d-5b9a-4624-8a4f-05b145c47fc6_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Looking for food in a place that doesn&#8217;t offer it easily</figcaption></figure></div><p>During these Ramadan days,<em> </em>I realize that adaptation is not about knowing solutions from another similar place, but about finding a way within the limits of the place you are in. A new place comes with different conditions and different possibilities. Without familiar systems, quick fixes, or external support, I have to adjust my rhythm completely - even down to how and when I eat - while respecting the place I chose to visit.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r_JE!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F54a44354-c63a-424a-8cfa-08e14c8e2555_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r_JE!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F54a44354-c63a-424a-8cfa-08e14c8e2555_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r_JE!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F54a44354-c63a-424a-8cfa-08e14c8e2555_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r_JE!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F54a44354-c63a-424a-8cfa-08e14c8e2555_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r_JE!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F54a44354-c63a-424a-8cfa-08e14c8e2555_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r_JE!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F54a44354-c63a-424a-8cfa-08e14c8e2555_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/54a44354-c63a-424a-8cfa-08e14c8e2555_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:106343,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Calm tropical beach with palm trees and still water under a bright sky on Hithadhoo Island&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/194938811?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F54a44354-c63a-424a-8cfa-08e14c8e2555_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Calm tropical beach with palm trees and still water under a bright sky on Hithadhoo Island" title="Calm tropical beach with palm trees and still water under a bright sky on Hithadhoo Island" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r_JE!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F54a44354-c63a-424a-8cfa-08e14c8e2555_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r_JE!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F54a44354-c63a-424a-8cfa-08e14c8e2555_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r_JE!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F54a44354-c63a-424a-8cfa-08e14c8e2555_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r_JE!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F54a44354-c63a-424a-8cfa-08e14c8e2555_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">A place that doesn&#8217;t adjust and teaches you not to expect it to.</figcaption></figure></div><p>In places like this, the experience is shaped less by what you plan and more by what you don&#8217;t expect. The small, constant challenges, like finding food, moving between islands, adjusting to a completely different rhythm, require a kind of presence and flexibility that cannot be simulated or prepared for in advance. You are not just visiting the place; you are learning how to function within it. And in this process, something shifts quietly: not because you are looking for change, but because the environment is asking something different from you.</p><blockquote><p><em>When nothing bends for you, you don&#8217;t change the place; you learn how to move differently inside it.</em></p></blockquote><div class="image-gallery-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;gallery&quot;:{&quot;images&quot;:[{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/fb59a8cd-8325-4189-b737-d88d18f5ea50_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/b0cd0fe7-de82-40cc-8e58-29ab6b27a667_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/300714f4-168c-4a11-b378-491632c0cf89_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/103118d5-adef-44be-82bb-71e9bc16e256_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/d79095fe-1fd4-428c-9e95-abf91708b780_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/d8b45e50-3bd7-45a8-8fbb-6c4f9aa5c2b3_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/67672748-10ad-420b-969d-a226466780f3_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/15dfe686-3bfc-432d-8edc-8dc53c369634_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/5bd09148-fec4-4267-9637-17fffd809403_800x600.jpeg&quot;}],&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;staticGalleryImage&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/png&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/2a0d98e7-e49e-4bd3-9cf0-c50ce8fbd130_1456x1454.png&quot;}},&quot;isEditorNode&quot;:true}"></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[UNTANGLING THE NETS]]></title><description><![CDATA[Field Recordings: Fishermen cleaning and repairing their nets along the shores of Negombo, where repeated movements and everyday work reveal the rhythm of local life, Sri Lanka (Feb. 2026)]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/untangling-the-nets</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/untangling-the-nets</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 22 Apr 2026 08:59:47 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://api.substack.com/feed/podcast/194677222/6c279925f1e53931d1955c238beaa7dc.mp3" length="0" type="audio/mpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A few grounded moments by the shore &#8212; recorded as fishermen sit with their nets, untangling, repairing, and pulling out small fish caught in the mesh, repeating the same movements without pause.</p><blockquote><p><em>Sometimes, it&#8217;s not one moment that changes something, but the repetition of it. You don&#8217;t need to understand what you see for it to start reshaping how you respond to it.</em></p></blockquote><p class="button-wrapper" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe now&quot;,&quot;action&quot;:null,&quot;class&quot;:null}" data-component-name="ButtonCreateButton"><a class="button primary" href="https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?"><span>Subscribe now</span></a></p><p></p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Staying Until It Changes]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 35 - Cultural contrast, daily life, and the fish trade in Negombo, Sri Lanka]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/staying-until-it-changes</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/staying-until-it-changes</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2026 08:51:43 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tCKU!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Close to the capital of Colombo, Negombo has a different imprint and strong urban development around the airport area. The old canals, shaped during the Dutch colonial influence, still run through the town, cutting between houses and small streets. Focused on their hands, fishermen sew nets or pick small fish out of the mesh. Boats move slowly through the narrow water, always in motion but never rushed. Nearby, colonial-era churches are still active, used daily by the local Christian community. At the old Negombo Fort, people stand in line outside the prison, waiting quietly to visit someone inside.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tCKU!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tCKU!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tCKU!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tCKU!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tCKU!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tCKU!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:175832,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Small boats along a narrow canal in Negombo, with houses and greenery on both sides and a man standing in his boat&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/194045824?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Small boats along a narrow canal in Negombo, with houses and greenery on both sides and a man standing in his boat" title="Small boats along a narrow canal in Negombo, with houses and greenery on both sides and a man standing in his boat" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tCKU!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tCKU!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tCKU!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tCKU!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14923d34-1ee4-4634-abfc-247e0ea3107f_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Life moving quietly along the canals of Negombo</figcaption></figure></div><p>Further out, everything expands into scale and intensity. The fish market spreads across the area, loud and dense, but it doesn&#8217;t stop there. On the beach, the process continues: long stretches of fish are laid out under the sun, covering entire sections of sand. Under a shaded canopy, women with big gloves clean the fish, remove the insides, throw some into large barrels of brine, and leave others to dry on the beach. The air is heavy, the work is constant, and the whole space functions like an open industry. Later, the dried fish is packed into boxes and exported, moving from this raw, exposed process into a wider system. And just a a few kilometers away, Brown&#8217;s Beach feels completely separate: lined with resorts, clean, controlled, and without any trace of the life happening nearby.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ujkD!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3a8d2176-2e4c-4646-b7b7-1f5f19a87f9e_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ujkD!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3a8d2176-2e4c-4646-b7b7-1f5f19a87f9e_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ujkD!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3a8d2176-2e4c-4646-b7b7-1f5f19a87f9e_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ujkD!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3a8d2176-2e4c-4646-b7b7-1f5f19a87f9e_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ujkD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3a8d2176-2e4c-4646-b7b7-1f5f19a87f9e_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ujkD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3a8d2176-2e4c-4646-b7b7-1f5f19a87f9e_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/3a8d2176-2e4c-4646-b7b7-1f5f19a87f9e_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:216234,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Large sections of fish laid out on the beach in Negombo, with people working around them under makeshift shade.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/194045824?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3a8d2176-2e4c-4646-b7b7-1f5f19a87f9e_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Large sections of fish laid out on the beach in Negombo, with people working around them under makeshift shade." title="Large sections of fish laid out on the beach in Negombo, with people working around them under makeshift shade." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ujkD!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3a8d2176-2e4c-4646-b7b7-1f5f19a87f9e_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ujkD!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3a8d2176-2e4c-4646-b7b7-1f5f19a87f9e_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ujkD!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3a8d2176-2e4c-4646-b7b7-1f5f19a87f9e_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ujkD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3a8d2176-2e4c-4646-b7b7-1f5f19a87f9e_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Fish laid out to dry, turning the beach into an open production space</figcaption></figure></div><p>Walking through the fish-drying area is not just something I see once and move on from. I keep passing through the same heavy smell, the same open handling of fish, the same long surfaces covered in bodies left under the sun. Everything happens in the open, with no real distance between the work itself and the people moving around it.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!MDsX!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a9c2ccc-1e1a-4eca-bc33-78f5a522b430_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!MDsX!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a9c2ccc-1e1a-4eca-bc33-78f5a522b430_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!MDsX!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a9c2ccc-1e1a-4eca-bc33-78f5a522b430_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!MDsX!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a9c2ccc-1e1a-4eca-bc33-78f5a522b430_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!MDsX!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a9c2ccc-1e1a-4eca-bc33-78f5a522b430_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!MDsX!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a9c2ccc-1e1a-4eca-bc33-78f5a522b430_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/9a9c2ccc-1e1a-4eca-bc33-78f5a522b430_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:204601,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;People sitting on the ground in Negombo cleaning fish by hand, surrounded by baskets filled with freshly cut fish.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/194045824?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a9c2ccc-1e1a-4eca-bc33-78f5a522b430_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="People sitting on the ground in Negombo cleaning fish by hand, surrounded by baskets filled with freshly cut fish." title="People sitting on the ground in Negombo cleaning fish by hand, surrounded by baskets filled with freshly cut fish." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!MDsX!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a9c2ccc-1e1a-4eca-bc33-78f5a522b430_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!MDsX!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a9c2ccc-1e1a-4eca-bc33-78f5a522b430_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!MDsX!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a9c2ccc-1e1a-4eca-bc33-78f5a522b430_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!MDsX!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a9c2ccc-1e1a-4eca-bc33-78f5a522b430_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Work happening in the open, with no distance from it</figcaption></figure></div><p>The more I walk through it, the harder it is to stay detached. I see too clearly where food begins, how exposed it is, and how little control I actually have over what surrounds me. At first, my reaction is simple: I tell myself I will never eat canned fish from Sri Lanka again. But being here also means I cannot avoid everything. I keep moving through the place, and keep adjusting before my mind fully catches up.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zJbl!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26105d4b-bc27-49f4-8c4a-929bfc7b2b6e_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zJbl!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26105d4b-bc27-49f4-8c4a-929bfc7b2b6e_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zJbl!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26105d4b-bc27-49f4-8c4a-929bfc7b2b6e_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zJbl!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26105d4b-bc27-49f4-8c4a-929bfc7b2b6e_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zJbl!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26105d4b-bc27-49f4-8c4a-929bfc7b2b6e_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zJbl!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26105d4b-bc27-49f4-8c4a-929bfc7b2b6e_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/26105d4b-bc27-49f4-8c4a-929bfc7b2b6e_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:164381,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Fishermen in Negombo pouring fresh fish into large barrels, surrounded by buckets and wet surfaces near the shore.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/194045824?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26105d4b-bc27-49f4-8c4a-929bfc7b2b6e_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Fishermen in Negombo pouring fresh fish into large barrels, surrounded by buckets and wet surfaces near the shore." title="Fishermen in Negombo pouring fresh fish into large barrels, surrounded by buckets and wet surfaces near the shore." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zJbl!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26105d4b-bc27-49f4-8c4a-929bfc7b2b6e_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zJbl!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26105d4b-bc27-49f4-8c4a-929bfc7b2b6e_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zJbl!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26105d4b-bc27-49f4-8c4a-929bfc7b2b6e_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zJbl!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F26105d4b-bc27-49f4-8c4a-929bfc7b2b6e_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">From sea to salt, all in one continuous process</figcaption></figure></div><p>Eventually, my attitude on how fish is handled and packed on Negombo beach changes. The inner shift does not come in an instant, from a single exposure. It comes in time from repetition. It comes when you keep witnessing the process over and over again, while taking photos or strolling around. When you see the same environment repeatedly, the initial shock loses intensity and what has felt unacceptable begins to register as normal. At the same time, constant contact with different ways of living and handling everyday realities expands the frame through which you perceive things. Without effort or intention, what once triggered resistance is gradually integrated as part of a wider range of what is possible.</p><blockquote><p><em>When you stay inside cultural differences long enough, you stop reacting to what initially shocked you and start adapting to new ways of seeing things.</em></p></blockquote><div class="image-gallery-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;gallery&quot;:{&quot;images&quot;:[{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/c992b19a-24c2-4d56-bae8-0c6210c8a034_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/b1945b46-f946-4950-9bb2-b4c6c7cebc68_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/e0e01283-2f0f-43d7-97be-b912a55a58a2_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/26682e19-bae0-4544-8739-2f1cab796a3e_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/866f9f6f-e260-4eb0-a304-b9f280ce61e0_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/91672fdb-e92e-43a6-baa1-9cca285f4b48_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/6a3298e7-78eb-4fa9-a4a8-7054f99d2a32_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/bdde24db-38ed-42d4-b3a0-c50bcd70e697_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/706e995f-888a-47ab-861a-78d3ed22d200_800x600.jpeg&quot;}],&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;staticGalleryImage&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/png&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/89c8add1-e79e-4c8b-9c6f-d0545d0de6c1_1456x1454.png&quot;}},&quot;isEditorNode&quot;:true}"></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div><p></p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Waiting In-Between Systems]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 34 &#8212; In-person visa extension at the Immigration Offices in Battaramulla, Colombo, Sri Lanka]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/waiting-in-between-systems</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/waiting-in-between-systems</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 18 Apr 2026 07:19:47 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mMci!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The immigration office in Battaramulla is confusing from the moment you walk in. There&#8217;s a big room for visas on the third floor, with numerous offices and different areas, but nothing is really clear. People stand in one line, then leave it, then try another one. Some ask questions, some don&#8217;t. You just see movement all the time. Voices, names being called, people going back and forth. You look around and you&#8217;re not sure what you&#8217;re supposed to do.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mMci!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mMci!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mMci!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mMci!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mMci!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mMci!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/ef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:308303,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Online visa extension application confirmation for Sri Lanka displayed on a mobile device.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/193143763?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Online visa extension application confirmation for Sri Lanka displayed on a mobile device." title="Online visa extension application confirmation for Sri Lanka displayed on a mobile device." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mMci!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mMci!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mMci!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mMci!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fef2d8eec-1781-489e-8468-712c2319a599_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">The moment I thought everything was solved online</figcaption></figure></div><p>I applied online for a visa extension, but didn&#8217;t receive any answer. My visa expired two days ago, so I had to come back to Colombo and extend it in person. I&#8217;ve been waiting for a few hours already for my passport with the new visa. At some point, an officer calls my name. I go with a smile on my face to receive my passport.</p><p>&#8212; You have to go and pay for the visa, the officer tells me, and doesn&#8217;t give me the passport.</p><p>&#8212; But I have already paid, I reply, confused. Look!, and I show him the copy of my payment. I gave you the original one hour ago.</p><p>&#8212; Ah, ok, says the officer while looking at it, and takes the passport back again.</p><p>I step aside. I wait again. One more hour. </p><p>Sitting there, I reflect on how this whole trip through Sri Lanka has been going. I wanted to travel slowly through the island, as usual. At least, that was the original plan. I even booked my flight out later, thinking I would just extend the visa online. But that didn&#8217;t happen, and I had to change everything. Move faster. Stay less in places. Keep an eye on the days in the calendar all the time. Still, I didn&#8217;t want to give up the places that mattered to me. So I kept those and adjusted the rest.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!e17W!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5ffb0241-dcfc-461e-8143-caa1d1dbe57f_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!e17W!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5ffb0241-dcfc-461e-8143-caa1d1dbe57f_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!e17W!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5ffb0241-dcfc-461e-8143-caa1d1dbe57f_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!e17W!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5ffb0241-dcfc-461e-8143-caa1d1dbe57f_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!e17W!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5ffb0241-dcfc-461e-8143-caa1d1dbe57f_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!e17W!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5ffb0241-dcfc-461e-8143-caa1d1dbe57f_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/5ffb0241-dcfc-461e-8143-caa1d1dbe57f_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:604872,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Sri Lanka visa extension sticker inside a passport showing updated validity dates.&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/193143763?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5ffb0241-dcfc-461e-8143-caa1d1dbe57f_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Sri Lanka visa extension sticker inside a passport showing updated validity dates." title="Sri Lanka visa extension sticker inside a passport showing updated validity dates." srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!e17W!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5ffb0241-dcfc-461e-8143-caa1d1dbe57f_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!e17W!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5ffb0241-dcfc-461e-8143-caa1d1dbe57f_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!e17W!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5ffb0241-dcfc-461e-8143-caa1d1dbe57f_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!e17W!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5ffb0241-dcfc-461e-8143-caa1d1dbe57f_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">The result &#8212; after hours of waiting and going back and forth</figcaption></figure></div><p>Travel always brings new challenges along the way. Things don&#8217;t go as planned, even if you think you&#8217;ve figured it out before. You can&#8217;t really control all of it. Something always shows up. A rule, a delay, something you didn&#8217;t think about. What matters is being able to adjust and not get stuck. To find solutions along the way and try a new strategy each time. Know what you want, what&#8217;s less important and what&#8217;s a non-negotiable for you. </p><blockquote><p><em>When things don&#8217;t go as planned, unpredictable situations don&#8217;t require perfect plans. They require the ability to adapt, adjust, and keep moving forward without losing what is essential. </em></p></blockquote><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Colonial Echoes that Stay]]></title><description><![CDATA[Letters on the Road No. 33 - Between conflict and simple pleasures in Jaffna, Northern Sri Lanka]]></description><link>https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/colonial-echoes-that-stay</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://authentictravels.substack.com/p/colonial-echoes-that-stay</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Iuliana Marchian]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sun, 12 Apr 2026 18:21:53 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_QrL!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Jaffna is a small peninsula in the north of Sri Lanka, with a rhythm that feels quieter and more contained than in the rest of the country. Wide and calm streets. Exotic vegetation and low houses &#8212; some with small porches that open directly into the leafy courtyards. The atmosphere feels deeply local, with very few signs of outside influence or tourism.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_QrL!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_QrL!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_QrL!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_QrL!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_QrL!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_QrL!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/d160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:176736,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;A quiet street in Jaffna with palm trees, low houses, and soft natural light&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/193982240?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="A quiet street in Jaffna with palm trees, low houses, and soft natural light" title="A quiet street in Jaffna with palm trees, low houses, and soft natural light" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_QrL!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_QrL!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_QrL!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_QrL!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd160f791-a82b-4cea-b55a-3a8cf74705cd_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Quiet streets and slow rhythms in Jaffna</figcaption></figure></div><p>In the small historic center, colorful colonial churches stand among everyday life. The Dutch fort still dominates the area, carrying traces of the more recent civil war. Small local shops appear here and there, often squeezed into the ground floor of houses, where almost anything can be found in a tight, crowded space. A few Hindu temples blend into the streets, without standing apart from the rhythm of daily life. The place feels lived from the inside, shaped by its Tamil identity and its past.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!cj7q!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd8b8d091-ad14-40d6-bce5-af320b021893_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!cj7q!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd8b8d091-ad14-40d6-bce5-af320b021893_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!cj7q!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd8b8d091-ad14-40d6-bce5-af320b021893_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!cj7q!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd8b8d091-ad14-40d6-bce5-af320b021893_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!cj7q!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd8b8d091-ad14-40d6-bce5-af320b021893_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!cj7q!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd8b8d091-ad14-40d6-bce5-af320b021893_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/d8b8d091-ad14-40d6-bce5-af320b021893_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:148440,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Colorful Hindu temple in Jaffna with detailed carvings and Tamil architectural style&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/193982240?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd8b8d091-ad14-40d6-bce5-af320b021893_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Colorful Hindu temple in Jaffna with detailed carvings and Tamil architectural style" title="Colorful Hindu temple in Jaffna with detailed carvings and Tamil architectural style" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!cj7q!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd8b8d091-ad14-40d6-bce5-af320b021893_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!cj7q!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd8b8d091-ad14-40d6-bce5-af320b021893_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!cj7q!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd8b8d091-ad14-40d6-bce5-af320b021893_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!cj7q!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd8b8d091-ad14-40d6-bce5-af320b021893_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">A place shaped by culture, history, and daily life</figcaption></figure></div><p>I move slowly through the streets, with a loose plan in mind, following what appears along the way. The houses keep drawing my attention, with colonial details still visible in their structure. Sometimes I stop to reconfigure my direction, other times to take photos, trying to understand what feels out of place and familiar at the same time.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWfT!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff0dcba6f-88a9-4ce8-89f4-9c0fc8c5178f_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWfT!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff0dcba6f-88a9-4ce8-89f4-9c0fc8c5178f_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWfT!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff0dcba6f-88a9-4ce8-89f4-9c0fc8c5178f_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWfT!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff0dcba6f-88a9-4ce8-89f4-9c0fc8c5178f_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWfT!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff0dcba6f-88a9-4ce8-89f4-9c0fc8c5178f_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWfT!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff0dcba6f-88a9-4ce8-89f4-9c0fc8c5178f_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/f0dcba6f-88a9-4ce8-89f4-9c0fc8c5178f_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:182717,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Two local women in traditional saris walking along a quiet street in Jaffna&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/193982240?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff0dcba6f-88a9-4ce8-89f4-9c0fc8c5178f_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Two local women in traditional saris walking along a quiet street in Jaffna" title="Two local women in traditional saris walking along a quiet street in Jaffna" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWfT!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff0dcba6f-88a9-4ce8-89f4-9c0fc8c5178f_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWfT!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff0dcba6f-88a9-4ce8-89f4-9c0fc8c5178f_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWfT!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff0dcba6f-88a9-4ce8-89f4-9c0fc8c5178f_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!DWfT!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff0dcba6f-88a9-4ce8-89f4-9c0fc8c5178f_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Moving slowly, observing what repeats</figcaption></figure></div><p>Walking through the fort, its walls and open spaces reveal how well everything has been preserved despite the recent civil war. There aren&#8217;t many landmarks in Jaffna, so I end up wandering through the same areas, letting the city reveal itself in fragments. A baptism takes place inside the old cathedral &#8212; a building that still carries visible signs of renovation after the war. Then, I step into a worn-down pastry shop, where a long menu of ice cream variations covers the walls. I sit for a moment to enjoy the local <em>falooda</em> before continuing to walk through the same slow-paced streets.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ircf!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff67f7cca-b500-451e-9b80-ff045a73c162_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ircf!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff67f7cca-b500-451e-9b80-ff045a73c162_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ircf!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff67f7cca-b500-451e-9b80-ff045a73c162_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ircf!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff67f7cca-b500-451e-9b80-ff045a73c162_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ircf!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff67f7cca-b500-451e-9b80-ff045a73c162_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ircf!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff67f7cca-b500-451e-9b80-ff045a73c162_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/f67f7cca-b500-451e-9b80-ff045a73c162_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:137655,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Stone entrance of the Dutch fort in Jaffna with preserved walls and open pathway&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/193982240?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff67f7cca-b500-451e-9b80-ff045a73c162_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="Stone entrance of the Dutch fort in Jaffna with preserved walls and open pathway" title="Stone entrance of the Dutch fort in Jaffna with preserved walls and open pathway" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ircf!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff67f7cca-b500-451e-9b80-ff045a73c162_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ircf!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff67f7cca-b500-451e-9b80-ff045a73c162_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ircf!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff67f7cca-b500-451e-9b80-ff045a73c162_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ircf!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff67f7cca-b500-451e-9b80-ff045a73c162_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">Walking through spaces that have remained</figcaption></figure></div><p>I haven&#8217;t imagined finding such a strong and well-preserved colonial imprint here, in a place I associate more with conflict than pleasures and traditions. There is a quiet contrast between what I have thought would remain after a long civil war and what is actually still standing, so strong and almost untouched in its structure. The fort walls, the churches, even the modest houses seem to carry a layer of history that hasn&#8217;t disappeared, only paused. It feels as if the war hasn&#8217;t erased this part of the country, but has somehow isolated it, leaving it suspended in time. What I&#8217;ve thought to be absence reveals itself instead as a form of preservation.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Wi0j!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F952e7f86-2cf9-410a-8955-e47678e757f8_800x600.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Wi0j!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F952e7f86-2cf9-410a-8955-e47678e757f8_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Wi0j!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F952e7f86-2cf9-410a-8955-e47678e757f8_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Wi0j!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F952e7f86-2cf9-410a-8955-e47678e757f8_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Wi0j!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F952e7f86-2cf9-410a-8955-e47678e757f8_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Wi0j!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F952e7f86-2cf9-410a-8955-e47678e757f8_800x600.jpeg" width="800" height="600" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/952e7f86-2cf9-410a-8955-e47678e757f8_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:600,&quot;width&quot;:800,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:138216,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;A light blue colonial church in Jaffna with twin towers, crosses, and simple open space in front&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/i/193982240?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F952e7f86-2cf9-410a-8955-e47678e757f8_800x600.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="A light blue colonial church in Jaffna with twin towers, crosses, and simple open space in front" title="A light blue colonial church in Jaffna with twin towers, crosses, and simple open space in front" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Wi0j!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F952e7f86-2cf9-410a-8955-e47678e757f8_800x600.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Wi0j!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F952e7f86-2cf9-410a-8955-e47678e757f8_800x600.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Wi0j!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F952e7f86-2cf9-410a-8955-e47678e757f8_800x600.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Wi0j!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F952e7f86-2cf9-410a-8955-e47678e757f8_800x600.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a><figcaption class="image-caption">A bright colonial church in the middle of ordinary life</figcaption></figure></div><p>In this unusual setting &#8212; shaped by conflict, post-war reality, and different ethnic groups &#8212; small, repeated gestures continue quietly. A simple stop to savor a <em>falooda</em>, a familiar ritual to baptize a newborn, a moment shared without urgency &#8212; these are enough to carry life forward. Even in the middle of difficulty, people return to what brings them a small sense of pleasure and joy. What is local, lived, and repeated does not disappear; it adapts and remains, making life feel fuller even when the context is not.</p><blockquote><p><em>Simple pleasures, repeated over time, can make life feel fuller even in the middle of difficulty.</em></p></blockquote><div class="image-gallery-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;gallery&quot;:{&quot;images&quot;:[{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/6466623d-7ec2-410d-bcbc-1b58dcef31da_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/2004e136-2907-4576-8b20-ae4f5d34d36c_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/69bdbdb8-80d5-4230-9894-b035fb6aace4_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/8b38ef9e-554a-4f55-9e6a-314225ac3f00_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/df3cc92c-c05a-430d-902d-15314f02f8a2_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/5b2ca3a0-5296-4636-919c-28df733aa8bd_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/568e4147-d829-4189-ab94-4c850dd9d513_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/5f5ebb99-9a85-46b5-82b2-281bcaa42a82_800x600.jpeg&quot;},{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/734e668b-38be-4bc7-9cc0-20111c1ea4b9_800x600.jpeg&quot;}],&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;staticGalleryImage&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/png&quot;,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/b2179a04-b751-4f4c-aae0-3f34cac40ee0_1456x1454.png&quot;}},&quot;isEditorNode&quot;:true}"></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://authentictravels.substack.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Authentic Travels! 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